1. What is Chlamydiosis?

Chlamydiosis is a disease caused by an intracellular bacteria called chlamydia psittaci. It is seen in all species of birds. It is very common in most parrot species and in pigeons.

2. Does chlamydia affect humans?

Yes. The common signs are flu-like with a high fever, severe headaches and a dry cough.

If untreated it can develop into atypical pneumonia and meningitis.

Even birds without clinical signs can pass chlamydia to humans.

3. How is the bird infected with Chlamydia?

The micro-organism is found in feather dust and dried up faeces and is dispersed by air circulation. It will survive for up to several months in the environment. Chlamydia is regularly or intermittently shed in the faeces, urine, nasal and ocular discharges. Many birds with no clinical signs can be shedding chlamydia.

4. What are the clinical signs of acute Chlamydiosis?

“Fluffed up” and lethargic; conjunctivitis and sinusitis; yellowish to greenish droppings; difficulty breathing; weight loss and dehydration; death.

5. What are the clinical signs of low grade or protracted Chlamydiosis?

Progressive emaciation; greenish diarrhoea; conjunctivitis; convulsion and tremors; poor fertility.

6. Do all birds with chlamydia have clinical signs?

No. Many birds are asymptomatic carriers. They will often only show clinical signs if stressed (new surroundings, moulting or breeding).

7. How is Chlamydiosis identified?

It is hard to conclusively identify. Helpful hints are the clinical signs, antibody tests (such as the Immunocomb Chlamydia test) and cytology of the conjunctiva and blood cells. A PCR test is also available.

8. What is the treatment for Chlamydiosis?

Doxycycline is the preferred treatment for Chlamydiosis. The treatment is for 45 days.

The medication is available as an in water or oral medication or preferably by weekly injection.

9. What additional treatment procedures may be needed?

The cage should be cleaned thoroughly daily and then disinfected. Quarantine all new birds until treated for chlamydia. High energy soft-liquid food supplements for emaciated birds.

Fluids intravenously or subcutaneously may be needed in cases of severe vomiting.

A heat source e.g. a 40 watt light globe. Treatment of the often present secondary infections.

10. What preventative measures are needed?

At a bird’s yearly health check it should be examined for any signs of chlamydia and then preferably tested or treated for chlamydia if necessary. Preferably all new birds should be tested/treated for chlamydia.

Feeding

• A balanced diet is important for your bird. Bird pellets or crumble should be available at all times. If your bird is on a seed diet, it should not eat only one type of seed and should have no more than 10-15 sunflower seeds per day.

• Ideally, each day your bird should be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc.

• Grass should be provided daily for all non-fruit eating parrots.

• Other foods you can serve in small amounts as treats include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, mashed potato, chicken bones and other meats.

• Fruit may be also offered but many birds will not eat it.

• Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

• Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly.

• Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

• Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations. Annual blood screening is recommended in certain pet birds.

• Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia is important as it is very common in parrots and can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Heavy Metal Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, etc.

Cages and aviaries should be stainless steel, powder baked or the new BHP polymer covered wire. Repeatedly scrubbing galvanised wire with vinegar using a wire brush and then rinsing off with water will minimise the zinc toxicity but not eliminate it.

Cages

• Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

• Perches should be made of natural wood and various sizes provided.

• Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

• Avoid using metal objects such as toys, food bowls (except stainless steel) or plasticcoated bag ties in the cage.

• Add fresh greenery to the cage regularly (e.g. gum leaves and grasses).

1. Is the bird an emergency case?

The problem is that birds hide or "mask" the signs of disease until they are very sick. So the key is that any bird which shows any obvious signs of change from their normal behaviour may be an emergency. Do not just wait and see how the bird is over a few days as, by the time a decision to take the bird to a veterinarian is made, it may be too late. Preferably take the bird straight to the veterinarian.

2. What are the most common signs of an emergency?

Sleeping all the time, laboured breathing, vomiting, diarrhoea, poor ability to stand or walk, and seizures (fits). Other obvious emergency signs are wounds on your bird or blood in the cage. Your bird needs veterinary care as soon as possible.

3. How should the bird be handled in an emergency?

It is important to handle the bird as little as possible. It is best to pick up a very ill bird in a towel to avoid any problems during handling.

4. Is the bird hypothermic (too cold and in shock)?

Most Australian parrots can tolerate the cold quite well. If a bird is "fluffed up" it is probably cold and ill. Being "fluffed up" is the most common noticeable sign of a bird emergency.

5. Treatment of hypothermia

Use a heat lamp. Simply get a normal desk lamp and put a 40 watt pearl light bulb in it. Then place the lamp outside the cage right next to where your bird is sitting "fluffed up" to allow it to keep warm. The light can be left on all night and day for up to 48 hours. Cover the other three sides and roof of the cage with a towel or blanket to keep the heat in.

Alternatively use a heater, preferably with a thermostat. Electric oil heaters are ideal as they give off a slow heat and have a thermostat. Fan heaters can be used but move dry heated air which many birds cannot tolerate.

Placing the bird near a window in the sun is not useful because if the actual outside air temperature is low, the bird may actually still become cooler.is

Do not cover lights and heaters as this can cause fires.

6. What fluids and nutrition can be given to a bird in an emergency?

A "fluffed up" bird that is cold and in shock will also usually be low in blood glucose and, even if drinking and still eating a lot, will be dehydrated. At home give some warm sweet weak black tea or some warmed up non-fizzy electrolyte drink such as Gatorade or Powerade. Replace the bird's water with this and drop a little into its mouth every 1-2 hours. (To make up the tea use half a cup of warm water, add the corner of a tea bag till the water has turned light brown and then add a tablespoon of sugar.)

There are several commercially available electrolyte supplements for birds such as Polyaid or Spark from Vetafarm. Some of these supplements may need to be given by crop tube.

The ideal way to give fluids to a bird is by injection or by crop tube.

Also referred to as crop stasis, crop infection, or "sour crop"

1. What is the crop?

The crop is a part of the digestive system of most birds. It is a storage area for food before it enters the stomach. Young birds have a very large crop which contracts as the bird grows older. The crop wall is very thin in birds and is prone to tears, burns and injuries.

2. What causes crop problems?

Normally the crop empties shortly after the bird eats but sometimes a condition known as "crop stasis" occurs, in which there is a delay in the crop emptying. Delayed or reduced crop emptying can occur due to crop burns, overfilling or infections with parasites (eg trichomoniasis), fungi or bacteria. Kidney disease, heavy metal poisoning and viral disease (eg polyoma) can also be responsible. In handreared baby birds crop stasis may occur if the food they are fed is too cold. If the crop does not empty, the food inside then starts to decompose, leading to a condition often referred to as “sour crop”.

3. What are the clinical signs of a crop problem?

Clinical signs depend upon the severity of the disease. Signs range from “fluffing up” to decreased appetite, swollen crop, regurgitation and vomiting. Depending on the cause of the problem, your bird may show other signs such as excessive thirst, abdominal swelling and changes in the appearance of the droppings (eg abnormal colour or consistency).

4. How is the crop problem diagnosed?

A sample is taken from the crop and examined under the microscope to look for fungi or other parasites. Special staining of the crop sample is also necessary to determine the presence of harmful bacteria. In some cases, a culture and sensitivity laboratory test may also need to be performed to determine exactly which type of bacteria is present and the drug/s to which it is sensitive.

Blood tests or xrays may also be needed to detect the underlying cause eg heavy metal poisoning, kidney disease.

5. What is the treatment?

Treatment may involve antibiotics, anti-parasitic drugs, anti-fungal drugs, change in husbandry (eg temperature of food given to young birds) or just symptomatic treatment for the birds with suspected viral diseases. In severe cases your bird will need to stay in hospital for several days while it is stabilised and fluids and nutritional supplements administered.

6. What preventative measures are needed?

A good diet that includes pellets or crumbles and fresh foods; a clean cage environment with no exposure to toxic metals such as lead, zinc and copper; protection from wild birds; and protection from extremes of heat and cold. Annual health checks may find a crop problem before your bird becomes unwell.

• Trichomoniasis (canker)

• Solid external tumours

• Internal cancer. A common cancer affecting the kidneys or reproductive organs causes a unilateral (one-sided) lameness.

• Cnemidokoptic mite (scaley face) infestation is a frequent cause of crusty dermatitis of the cere (area around the nostrils over the beak), face and feet.

• Thyroid disorders such as goiter and hypothyroidism occur in budgies.

• Diabetes mellitus (sugar diabetes)

• Chlamydiosis (Psittacosis) is a common cause of respiratory disease in these popular birds.

• Coccidia

• Feather mites

• Hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease) is a problem that often causes death in this species.Usually on an all seed diet

• Lipomas (fatty lumps and tumours)

• Egg binding is seen with some frequency in pet budgerigars

• Psittacine Beak Feather disease (PBFD)

• Polyomavirus

• "French moult" (PBFD and or Polyomavirus)

• Megabacteria

• Feather cysts

• Cataracts

• Male baldness of the heads of certain canaries e.g Norwich canary

• Cnemidokoptic mite (scaley face)infestation called tassle-foot

• Air sac mites of the trachea and air sacs

• Toe or foot causing gangrene (from thin threads around the feet)

• Pox virus (skin disease or death)

• Egg binding

• Cochlosoma

• Megabacteia

• Chlamydia (Psittacosis)

• Mycoplasma

• Chlamydiosis (very common)

• Mycoplasma

• Giardia (these birds are very itchy and violently attack themselves, especially under the wings)

• Trichomoniasis,

• Yeast infection Candida.

• Fatty lumps and tumours in birds on an all-seed diet

• Sudden death is common in lutinos

• Fatty liver disease as a result of the high fat all-seed diets

• Reproductive problems

  • chronic egg laying

  • egg binding

  • egg yolk peritonitis

  • uterine infections

  • egg yolk emboli

• Polyomavirus

• Seed inhalation leading to breathing difficulties

• Psychological feather picking

• Beak and feather disease,

• Tapeworms

• Blood parasites

• Roundworm

• Regression to juvenile behavior (may be a very early sign of severe illness in this species)

• Cloacal prolapses

• Lipomas (benign fatty tumours), are commonly seen Galahs

• Heavy metal poisoning

• Trichomoniasis

• Polyomavirus

• Some birds will switch over to pellets readily within a few days. Others may take 4-6 weeks before conversion is achieved, so it is important to persevere and try a variety of methods.

• Do not just mix the seed and pellets together nor try forcing your bird to eat pellets by starving them with only pellets available during conversion.

Remember that a balanced diet is important for your bird. Not only should bird pellets or crumble be available at all times, but ideally each day your bird should also be supplied a selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc. Grass should be provided daily for all non-fruit-eating parrots. Other foods you can serve include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, mashed potato, chicken bones and other meats.

Conversion

To begin the process remove all food at 6 pm and ensure the cage is clean of any scraps, including grit, so that just water is available overnight.

The next morning, depending on the type of bird, continue the process using one of the following methods:

• friendly, household bird – Take the bird out of its cage and play with the pellets yourself on the table or floor. Pretend to eat them, crush them and move them around in front of the bird for 5-10 minutes. If the bird begins to pick them up and is seen to crush and eat them then conversion is complete. If the bird does not begin to eat the pellets during this time then remove the pellets and 1/2 hour later offer seed again.

• nonfriendly bird – indicate to the bird that it is feeding time either by ringing a bell or using a call (such as "foodtime") and place seed back in with the bird for 1 hour – repeat this again in the evening. Continue this process for 1 week. After 1 week replace the seed in the food container with pellets – if the bird begins to pick them up and is seen to crush and eat them then conversion is complete. If the bird does not begin to eat after 1 hour then remove the pellets and after 1/2 hour offer seed again.

Try for a few days – if you have no success, try again in a week's time.

Notes:

• When attempting to convert larger birds, gradually decrease the amount of sunflower seeds offered throughout the preceding week.

• Once your bird is eating pellets, you only need to have the food container 1/3 full and ensure water is plentiful. This allows your bird to crush the pellets and drop them back into the container. Your bird will then eat the crushed pellets.

• After conversion, most birds, particularly the smaller ones such as cockatiels, still need to have small amounts of seed once or twice a week.

1. What is chronic egg laying?

It is normal for female birds to lay occasional clutches of eggs each year or two. Chronic egg laying occurs when a female bird lays more than the normal number of eggs (this is more than 7 eggs in most species) or more commonly has repeated clutches of eggs, especially in the absence of a mate. Chronic egg laying can deplete the bird's calcium level and cause other nutritional problems.

2. Are certain birds prone to becoming chronic layers?

Cockatiels, lovebirds, and budgerigars. Hand-raised birds who use their owner as mate substitutes commonly develop this problem. However, it can occur in any species of bird.

3. What causes chronic egg laying?

A failure of the bird's hormones to switch off egg laying when it's inappropriate for a bird to be laying. This may be due to:

• inappropriate daylength

• stimulation caused by a perceived/real partner or mate, such as their owner or objects in the cage (eg cuddly toys)

• the presence and shredding of nesting material (eg paper)

• high fat diets

• seasonal changes

• diseases associated with the reproductive organs

4. Are there any health problems associated with chronic egg laying?

Chronic egg laying stresses the bird nutritionally. For birds eating a calcium deficient diet, especially all seeds, hypocalcemia (low blood calcium) may result. This can cause egg binding, seizures or death. Prolapses, in which the oviduct is expelled from the body, may also occur.

5. How is egg laying treated at home?

• The bird needs to be on a nutritionally balanced diet at all times. In addition a calcium supplement may be required during the egg laying period.

• Do not remove eggs as they are laid, as this can actually encourage the bird to lay more eggs. Leave the eggs in the cage for 2 weeks.

• Decrease the number of hours the bird is exposed to light. The cage location may also be changed.

• Obtain a mate for the bird and allow the bird to go through a full breeding cycle. This is often the most effective treatment.

6. How is chronic egg laying treated by your veterinarian?

Medical therapy may be needed. GnRH agonist injections (lucrin) can stop egg laying temporarily.

In some cases surgery to remove the uterus may be necessary. Behavioural consults may also help as the owner can gain an understanding of their bird's reason for chronic egg-laying and take steps to prevent it. Ultimately, the cause of the chronic egg laying needs to be removed.

1. What are leg rings and what are they used for?

A leg ring or band is an identification device applied around the lower leg of a bird. Leg rings can be metal or plastic and often have a unique identification number to distinguish individual birds in a flock or can be used as proof of ownership.

2. What are some of the complications seen with the use of leg rings?

Complications include pressure sores at the site of the ring, infections, bone fractures and/or loss of circulation to the claw leading to tissue necrosis (tissue death). In severe cases the claw may need to be amputated if the leg ring has caused irreversible damage. The leg may dislocate or break if the ring catches onto items such as branches or the cage bars.

3. Is there an alternative identification method available?

We do not recommend the use of leg rings on your bird. Alternatively, you can have your bird microchipped. See microchipping handout.

4. My bird has a leg ring. Should I have it removed?

It is recommended to have unnecessary rings removed. Ring removal should be performed by an avian vet. Most birds require a general anaesthetic to safely remove the ring. This is performed using either special leg ring removal instruments or small high-power tools.

5. Are there any risks involved in removing leg rings?

***Most leg rings are removed without complications***

Possible complications of removing rings that are too tight or have caused damage include:

• Anaesthetic risk: The procedure is generally performed under light anaesthesia which dramatically reduces the risk of complications. There is always a small risk with any anaesthetic.

• Broken legs: Tight rings can cause stress fractures (a fracture that occurs as a result of prolonged pressure applied to the bone). Stress fractures can weaken the bone and make it more prone to breaking especially at the time of ring removal. Some birds will require bandaging after ring removal.

• Haemorrhage (bleeding): Tight leg rings may result in haemorrhage upon removal of the ring. This occurs because the skin tissue has often healed over the ring and removal may reopen the wound. Bandaging and/or fluid therapy may be required to manage bleeding complications.

• Mild tissue damage and burns: Some of the instruments used to remove a leg ring can cause burns or tissue damage, especially when used to remove metal rings. If this occurs pain relief or bandaging may be required.

• Infection: There is always a risk of infection when there is an open wound. Birds at risk are often sent home with a course of antibiotics.

1. What is a microchip?

A microchip is a sterile device the size of a rice grain which contains an electronic identification code. This code is represented on an accompanying barcode label, the appearance and number of which is unique to your bird.

2. Why microchip a bird?

As is the case with dogs and cats, birds can be implanted with a microchip to assist in their identification. If the microchip number is also then registered with the Australasian Animal Registry, a national database is available to assist in the return of the bird to the rightful owner. This is especially important in the case of loss, dispute over ownership or theft.

3. Where is the microchip implanted?

Unlike dogs and cats the microchip is not placed under the skin but rather it is generally implanted in the left breast muscle. However, to ensure a bird has not already been microchipped, your veterinarian will thoroughly examine the entire bird using a microchip scanner.

4. Will the bird feel any discomfort?

As the microchip is placed into the muscle using a sterile needle, a light general anaesthetic is used to minimise any stress to the bird. Your veterinarian will explain the procedure thoroughly to ensure you are fully aware of the potential risk any anaesthesia entails.

5. How long does it take?

The procedure itself only takes a few minutes but to ensure your bird is fully awake after the anaesthesia you may be asked to remain at the clinic for 10-15 minutes. During this time, if you wish to register your bird with the Australasian Animal Registry, you can fill in the appropriate form.

6. How does registration work?

The clinic forwards the completed "Application for Registration" form to the Australasian Animal Registry. The information supplied on the form is entered onto the database and a letter confirming this is posted to you within a few weeks. Should your bird subsequently be handed in to a veterinary clinic it will be scanned and the microchip number that is read will enable the Australasian Animal Registry to retrieve your contact details from the database. It is your responsibility to update your contact details should they change at any stage.

7. What do I do if my bird goes missing?

Contact vets and pet stores in your area, as well as specialist avian vets, to inform them of your loss and that your bird is microchipped. If your bird is taken to any of these places it will be scanned as above and you or your alternate contact will be notified. You should also place notices and/or do letterbox drops in your area to inform your neighbours - don't place the microchip number on these as it is confidential.

8. Can all birds be microchipped?

Any bird weighing 100g or more can be microchipped eg rainbow lorikeets and larger. Smaller birds can also be done but individual cases need to be discussed with your veterinarian.

The list of indoor and outdoor plants has attempted to catalogue the plants considered to be potentially toxic. Some plants have been included on this list even if there is a remote possibility of concern.

Pot plants with milky sap should be avoided.

Amaryllis

American Yew

Autumn Crocus

(Meadow Saffron)

Avocado

Azalea

Balsam Pear

Baneberry

Bean Plants

Bird of Paradise

Black Elderberry (not berry)

Black Locus

Bleeding Heart

Bloodroot

Blue-green Algae

Boxwood

Bracken Fern

Buckthorn

Bulb Flowers

Burdock

Buttercup

Caladium

Calla Lily

Castor Bean (Castor Oil Plant)

Chalice Vine

Cherry Trees (Not pulp of fruit)

Christmas Candle

Christmas Cherry (berries)

Clematis

Coffee Plants

Comfrey

Coral Plant

Cowslip

Crotacaria Sp.

Crown Vetch

Cycads

Daffodil

Daphne

Datura (berries)

Death Amanita

Dieffenbachia

Elderberry

Elephant’s Ear (Taro)

English Holly

English Yew

Euonymus

Evergreen (most)

False Hellebore

Felt Plant

Firethorn

Flame Tree

Fly Agaric Mushrooms

Foxglove

Golden Chain

Hemlock

Holly

Honey Locust

Henbane

Horse Beans

Horse Chestnut

Hyacinth

Hydrangea

Indian Turnip

Iris

Ivy

Jack-In-The-Pulpit

Japanese Yew

Jasmine

Java Bean (Glorybean)

Jerusalem Chery

Jimson weed

Juniper

Lantana

Larkspur

Laurels

Lily-Of-The-Valley

Lobelia

Locoweed

Locusts

Lords-and-Ladies

Lupine

Marijuana

May Apple

Mescal Bean

Milkweed

Mistletoe

Mock Orange

Monkshood

Moonseed

Morning Glory

Mountain Laurel

Narcissus

Nettles

Nightshade

Nutmeg

Oleander

Periwinkle

Philodendron

Pigweed

Poinsettia

Poison Hemlock

Poison Ivy

Poison Oak

Pokeweed

Potato (new shoots)

Privet

Purple Sesbane

Rain Tree

Red Maple

Rhododendron

Rhubarb (leaves)

Rosary Peas

Sandbox Tree

Skunk Cabbage

Snow Flake

Snow-On-The-Mountain

Snowdrop

SorrelSpurges

Spindle Tree (berries)

Sweet Pea (plant)

Tobacco

Vetch

Virginia Creeper

Water Hemlock

Wattle

Western Yew

White Cedar

Wisteria

Yam Bean

Yew

If in doubt remove the plant!

In general, birds are great travellers. Most tolerate cars and aeroplanes very well and some actually love the excitement of travel. Planning ahead will ensure a safe, enjoyable trip for you and your bird. You may be taking the bird to the veterinarian, moving to a new residence Travelling long distances. What sort of container should I use to travel in the car? All birds can be transported in a cage as long as it fits in the car. It is preferable not to allow the bird to roam freely in the car while driving. You may wish to buy a small cage just for travel. Special pet carriers may be purchased from the pet store or your veterinarian. These carriers are usually rugged, conveniently sized for carrying, secure and comfortable for your pet. Small birds such as budgies, canaries or cockatiels may be put in a small box with small holes in the lid to provide air for short trips. The cover should be secured to prevent accidental escape.

Remember, many birds are capable of chewing their way out of the box. Toys and swings should be removed from the cage to prevent injury to the bird during rough trips. All containers should be secured in a car seat belt to prevent movement or shifting. It is not necessary to cover your bird for travelling

What about bad weather? You may still travel in bad weather. In cold weather the car must be prewarmed and the cage or carrier covered well using towels, blankets, duvets or jackets. In hot weather the bird must have some ventilation or fresh air and should never be left unattended in the car. Even birds naturally from a hot climate can suffer heat stroke very quickly. What if I travel by aeroplane? It is up to you to contact the specific airline and determine what their policies allow. Often a pet carrier will fit under the seat.

Food and water should be available. One suggestion is to freeze the water prior to departure so the water will not spill early in the trip and will be accessible to the bird as it thaws out. Succulent fruits such as oranges should be provided for nutrition and fluids. It is not advised to use tranquillisers or sedatives on birds during travel Certain hotels or motels will not allow pets and should be consulted ahead of time.

Can I travel out of the country with my bird? It is essential that you contact the animal quarantine authorities for information on the country you are planning to enter. All countries have their own rules and regulations with respect to travelling, importing, endangered species and disease control. Record the name of the person supplying the information as reference should you encounter problems. It is best to obtain this information well in advance of your trip and in writing.

Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick. Depending on the bird, 6 monthly or yearly health checks are recommended to ensure that your bird is not masking any illness or injury.

The avian vet will conduct a physical examination of your bird to check for any obvious signs of ill health. Advice on diet, husbandry and behaviour will also be provided. Microchipping of your bird can also be performed.

Depending on this initial examination, the vet may suggest one or more of the following tests:

Bacteria, fungi and parasite screening

• crop and faecal smears – Smears examined under the microscope to determine the presence of parasites and fungi (giardia, trichomonads, worms, coccidia, megabacteria) and bacterial infections. Faecal flotation may also be required for certain parasites.

• Gram staining for bacteria – Bacteria are normally found in the gastro-intestinal tract in certain types and numbers. Special staining of the crop and faecal smear is done to determine some of the characteristics of these bacteria and fungi such as relative numbers and shape.

• Culture and sensitivity – The vet may recommend sending a culture and sensitivity test swab of any abnormal bacteria or fungi to the laboratory to determine exactly which type of bacteria is present and which medication to use.

Blood tests

Infectious diseases

• Chlamydophila (chlamydia) test – This determines the presence of the chlamydophila organism and/or previous exposure. This illness can also be transmitted to humans.

• Polyoma and Psittacine Beak & Feather Disease (PBFD) – These are highly recommended in young birds to determine exposure to these viruses and the level of immunity.

Other laboratory blood tests available

• Haematology – Red and white blood cell count;

  1) To determine the personal profile of your bird so that normal values for your bird are established. A change in these values at a later date can be used to diagnose any disease process; and/or

  2) To diagnose an underlying disease process. Any imbalance in the proportion of white blood cells indicates illness.

• Biochemistry – This will provide information on whether the internal organs such as the kidney, liver, pancreas and intestine are functioning normally.

• DNA sexing