Advise clients over the phone that:

• Birds hide the signs of disease as a natural reflex.

• Therefore any signs of illness or abnormal behaviour (eg voice change, unusual droppings, irritability) need immediate attention.

• Any bird displaying obvious signs of disease (eg fluffed up, not eating, vomiting) is often suffering from a life threatening condition.

• Some birds continue to eat right up to the point of death. Eating does not necessarily mean the bird is healthy.

• Most conditions cannot be diagnosed over the phone. As birds hide the signs of disease, further diagnostic tests may be needed at the time of consultation to establish a diagnosis.

Advise clients coming to the vet to bring:

• The bird in its cage with a layer of white paper on the cage floor and then cover this with plastic.

• The bird in a box if a suitable travel cage is not available. Place paper on the bottom of the box and bring a picture of the aviary or cage.

• All medications and supplements.

• All the bird’s toys.

• Samples of all the bird’s food.

• All feeding and watering utensils.

• Some fresh droppings from the client’s other birds.

Do not clean the cage prior to placing the white paper on the floor.

Empty the water from the water bowl prior to travelling to the veterinarian.

1. What does quarantine of a new bird mean?

Quarantine is the separation and isolation of all new birds from all other birds.

All new birds are quarantined to prevent the introduction of new infections to the other birds already in the owners home or aviary.

2. What type of separation is needed?

The new birds should be kept in a separate room to all the other birds. I f the birds are outside they should be placed in a cage as far as possible away from all the other birds. The birds should be preferably protected from access by wild birds.

3. What other precautions should be taken?

The new birds should be fed and their cages cleaned after all the other birds have been fed and cleaned.

All seed and other waste should be removed and disposed of.

4. What period of quarantine is needed?

The length of quarantine is a minimum of six weeks. If the bird is sick during this time than the quarantine period is extended by a further six weeks.

For exotic (overseas) birds the quarantine period may be longer. In some cases the new highly valued bird may need to be protected from infections of the owners other birds.

Some pet owners are reluctant to keep the birds separate for the six week period. The owner should keep the birds separated for at least a week. The owner be advised that this is not an appropriately safe period of quarantine to prevent infections. This period only allows for examination by an avian veterinarian and for the obvious display of a bird’s already present clinical signs.

5. What signs are looked for during quarantine?

The birds behavioural patterns especially its eating habits are observed and any change to this or any clinical signs of disease are noted and treated.

6. What type of examination and treatment are necessary?

Before entering the quarantine period the bird should be weighed and its general health checked. The birds should be examined and treated for mites and lice at the beginning and end of quarantine. The birds should be wormed at the beginning and end of the quarantine period.

7. What simple veterinary checks can be performed by an avian veterinarian?

The general health of the bird can be examined. The bird can be checked for mites and lice. Microscopic examination for worms, megabacteria and motile protozoa.The bird can be tested and/or prophylactically treated for chlamydia with doxycycline for six weeks. More advanced tests may be needed for highly valued birds.Any birds that die in quarantine should have a post mortem.

8. Will all the diseases be detected or treated during the quarantine period?

The majority of treatable problems will be detected during the 6 week period. Many non-treatable viral diseases may also be detected simply becuase of the birds abnormal behaviour during quarantine.

However several diseases, especially some viral diseases with long incubation periods, will neither be detected nor prophylactically treated.

1. What is a Moult?

Moulting is the replacement of old feathers with new feathers. It is a normal process in birds.

2. What does moulting look like?

During a moult feathers that have fallen out are often found in the bottom of the cage/aviary. The new feathers growing in their place on th e body initially appear like waxy pins. Usually these are more noticeable on the head.

During a feather’s growth there is a large blood supply to the quill (also known as the shaft) of each new feather, these feathers are commonly called blood feathers. These blood in the feather is easiest to see in the large wing and tail feathers. This blood supply is steadily reduced as the feather matures into a normal fully grown feather.

3. What is an abnormal Moult?

A moult should not cause major bald spots as a normal moult replaces a few feathers at a time with new growth shortly after.

Feathers that are discoloured or remain as pin feathers are abnormal and a disease process is likely to be the cause. Common causes of abnormal moults include viral and bacterial infections as well as liver diseases and nutritional deficiencies.

4. How often do birds moult?

Moults occur once to twice a year depending on the bird species. The most common time for a moult is mid-summer, with often a second, smaller moult in early-mid winter. Most normal moults take about 6 weeks to complete.

The flight feathers of both wings are moulted and replaced in order with the outer feathers being replaced before the inner flight feathers.

5. Problems associated with moults.

Moulting can be stressful for birds. A lot of energy is expended in the production of new feathers. Hormonal changes, which are a normal part of the moulting process, may also affect the immune system such that moulting birds are more susceptible to infections.

Wing clips can be potential problems during moults. Normally only a few wing feathers fall out at a time. In the wild this is to allow the bird to continue to fly during a moult. In an unclipped wing, new blood feathers are protected by the old feathers yet to be moulted. If there are no old feathers or the feathers have been clipped too short the new blood feathers are left exposed. This can lead to injury, should the bird flap its wings on a branch or the side of the cage, and cause excessive bleeding and pain to the bird. If this happens the bird may need to have pain relief or antibiotics.

6. Do birds need supplements to help during times of moulting?

Birds on a balanced diet of pellets, some seed and fresh foods do not need vitamin supplements. Birds on all seed diets may need vitamin and mineral supplements

• Proventricular dilatation syndrome (chronic and progressive weight loss and death)

• Chlamydiosis (Psittacosis)

• Gastrointestinal parasites capillaria and ascarids

• Oral and cloacal papillomatosis .

• Psychological feather picking

• Regression to juvenile behavior (may be the only sign of illness in sick macaws)

• Heavy metal poisoning

• Polyomavirus

• Chlamydiosis

• Yeast infection candidiasis

• Pox virus (often causes a discolouration of the skin)

• Intolerance to heat

• Psittacine beak and feather disease

• Polyomavirus

• Epilepsy

• Egg binding

• Uterine infections

• Megabacteria

• Psttacine Pruritic Polyfolliculitis

• Aggression to other birds

1. Why should I feed my bird wild plants or 'bush tucker'?

Birds have been foraging for food for millions of years without eating farmed seed or human foods. In the Australian bush our birds such as budgies, cockatiels and cockatoos eat foods found there. They are healthy and happy and do not get obese, do not have dry skin or other diet-related problems that occur in pet birds on poor diets.

2. What things make up the diet of wild birds?Natural foods are available seasonally. They include insects (including grubs and woodboring larvae), tree leaves and blossoms, nectar, pollen, wild fruits in season, grass roots, wild grasses and their seeds. Birds eat a wide variety of substances in the wild – some species of birds eat clay on river beds for minerals or for use as a natural purgative. The complete wild diet of many of our birds is still unknown.

3. Where can I find my bird these natural foods?

There are many Australian plants and blossoms growing in suburban gardens and used by local councils in the streets. Local councils often have tree lopping days when they cut branches from trees and shrubs that are encroaching on powerlines and cables. This is the time to refresh branches in your bird's cage and to get those hard to get at blossoms on the tops of the trees. Make sure that the trees are Australian and be careful not to harvest trees and blossoms near a main road as they may be contaminated with oils and minerals from petrol and diesel fumes.

4. What can I grow in my backyard?

You can grow Australian plants in your garden and harvest the blossoms at any time of the year. Acacias (wattles) grow flowers in the winter and grevilleas grow flowers the whole year round.

5. How do I convert my bird to a broader diet that includes bush tucker?

Converting seed eating birds to a broad diet is not always easy. Birds raised by people don't recognise natural wild foods as food. It may take days, weeks or months to modify your bird’s diet. Treat your bird like a small child – offer a large variety of bush tucker items and never stop trying. You can also pretend to eat the foods with your bird to encourage them.

6. What plants and blossoms should I feed my bird?

Banksia, eucalyptus, acacia, grevilleas, mallees, casuarina, malaleuca and hakia are all groups of plants your bird will enjoy. In fact, you can give your bird a huge variety of Australian plants and blossoms. Most parrots and especially the Cockatoo species such as sulfur-crested cockatoos and galahs love to graze grass particularly young fresh grass roots. Pull up some fresh grass each day for them to enjoy.

For a new young parrot it is important to have its behaviour assessed at its first health check.

Advice needs to be given by an avian veterinarian on the best early training for each particular species.

Each year birds should have their behaviour and training assessed, and this knowledge should be built upon.

The plan is to teach birds how to act and live with us in order to stop them growing up to be feather pickers, screamers, cage guarders, biters and chronic egg layers. These problems, apart from emergencies, make up the bulk of avian consultations.

Training is not designed to teach birds tricks but to teach them the rules of socialisation.

Many parrots live close to their parents from three months of age for as long as three or four years.

During this time their parents and other adult birds teach them how to interact and be part of the flock. They teach them what to eat, how to preen themselves and how to call other members of the flock.

Parrots are often taken from their parents either prior to, or just after, weaning.

Often we give these birds no specific instructions except to eat what we feed them, and to accept and enjoy cuddles and preening from us. The birds are left to decide for themselves what is appropriate behaviour and what isn’t. When they try out certain behaviour we either reward them or reprimand them.

These birds learn by trial and error how to act and, if not corrected or steered in the right direction, often learn poor habits.

Birds that live in our houses need to learn how to interact with humans.

We can teach birds to adjust better to living with their human flock and be happy living in our environments and with our lifestyles.

This may be achieved in a single consultation at an avian veterinarian or it may need several consultations over a period of time to assess how your bird is progressing.

Mature birds with behavioural problems have become sexually bonded to their owner.

This was often initiated in the early training of the bird.

These birds have not been trained to know they are birds and become very confused when their signals for affection aren’t always reciprocated by their owners.

These birds start to become frustrated confused mates when they are not allowed to build a pair bonded relationship with their owners at all times.

Often these mature birds become feather pickers, chronic egg layers, cage guarders, screamers and are generally very demanding. They do not know how to live as if it is not the breeding season.

Problems become so entrenched that, in some of these birds, behavioural and hormonal drugs may also be necessary in conjunction with behavioural changes.

1. Is the bird an emergency case?

The problem is that birds hide or "mask" the signs of disease until they are very sick. So the key is that any bird which shows any obvious signs of change from their normal behaviour may be an emergency. Do not just wait and see how the bird is over a few days as, by the time a decision to take the bird to a veterinarian is made, it may be too late. Preferably take the bird straight to the veterinarian.

2. What are the most common signs of an emergency?

Sleeping all the time, laboured breathing, vomiting, diarrhoea, poor ability to stand or walk, and seizures (fits). Other obvious emergency signs are wounds on your bird or blood in the cage. Your bird needs veterinary care as soon as possible.

3. How should the bird be handled in an emergency?

It is important to handle the bird as little as possible. It is best to pick up a very ill bird in a towel to avoid any problems during handling.

4. Is the bird hypothermic (too cold and in shock)?

Most Australian parrots can tolerate the cold quite well. If a bird is "fluffed up" it is probably cold and ill. Being "fluffed up" is the most common noticeable sign of a bird emergency.

5. Treatment of hypothermia

Use a heat lamp. Simply get a normal desk lamp and put a 40 watt pearl light bulb in it. Then place the lamp outside the cage right next to where your bird is sitting "fluffed up" to allow it to keep warm. The light can be left on all night and day for up to 48 hours. Cover the other three sides and roof of the cage with a towel or blanket to keep the heat in.

Alternatively use a heater, preferably with a thermostat. Electric oil heaters are ideal as they give off a slow heat and have a thermostat. Fan heaters can be used but move dry heated air which many birds cannot tolerate.

Placing the bird near a window in the sun is not useful because if the actual outside air temperature is low, the bird may actually still become cooler.is

Do not cover lights and heaters as this can cause fires.

6. What fluids and nutrition can be given to a bird in an emergency?

A "fluffed up" bird that is cold and in shock will also usually be low in blood glucose and, even if drinking and still eating a lot, will be dehydrated. At home give some warm sweet weak black tea or some warmed up non-fizzy electrolyte drink such as Gatorade or Powerade. Replace the bird's water with this and drop a little into its mouth every 1-2 hours. (To make up the tea use half a cup of warm water, add the corner of a tea bag till the water has turned light brown and then add a tablespoon of sugar.)

There are several commercially available electrolyte supplements for birds such as Polyaid or Spark from Vetafarm. Some of these supplements may need to be given by crop tube.

The ideal way to give fluids to a bird is by injection or by crop tube.

Also referred to as crop stasis, crop infection, or "sour crop"

1. What is the crop?

The crop is a part of the digestive system of most birds. It is a storage area for food before it enters the stomach. Young birds have a very large crop which contracts as the bird grows older. The crop wall is very thin in birds and is prone to tears, burns and injuries.

2. What causes crop problems?

Normally the crop empties shortly after the bird eats but sometimes a condition known as "crop stasis" occurs, in which there is a delay in the crop emptying. Delayed or reduced crop emptying can occur due to crop burns, overfilling or infections with parasites (eg trichomoniasis), fungi or bacteria. Kidney disease, heavy metal poisoning and viral disease (eg polyoma) can also be responsible. In handreared baby birds crop stasis may occur if the food they are fed is too cold. If the crop does not empty, the food inside then starts to decompose, leading to a condition often referred to as “sour crop”.

3. What are the clinical signs of a crop problem?

Clinical signs depend upon the severity of the disease. Signs range from “fluffing up” to decreased appetite, swollen crop, regurgitation and vomiting. Depending on the cause of the problem, your bird may show other signs such as excessive thirst, abdominal swelling and changes in the appearance of the droppings (eg abnormal colour or consistency).

4. How is the crop problem diagnosed?

A sample is taken from the crop and examined under the microscope to look for fungi or other parasites. Special staining of the crop sample is also necessary to determine the presence of harmful bacteria. In some cases, a culture and sensitivity laboratory test may also need to be performed to determine exactly which type of bacteria is present and the drug/s to which it is sensitive.

Blood tests or xrays may also be needed to detect the underlying cause eg heavy metal poisoning, kidney disease.

5. What is the treatment?

Treatment may involve antibiotics, anti-parasitic drugs, anti-fungal drugs, change in husbandry (eg temperature of food given to young birds) or just symptomatic treatment for the birds with suspected viral diseases. In severe cases your bird will need to stay in hospital for several days while it is stabilised and fluids and nutritional supplements administered.

6. What preventative measures are needed?

A good diet that includes pellets or crumbles and fresh foods; a clean cage environment with no exposure to toxic metals such as lead, zinc and copper; protection from wild birds; and protection from extremes of heat and cold. Annual health checks may find a crop problem before your bird becomes unwell.

• Trichomoniasis (canker)

• Solid external tumours

• Internal cancer. A common cancer affecting the kidneys or reproductive organs causes a unilateral (one-sided) lameness.

• Cnemidokoptic mite (scaley face) infestation is a frequent cause of crusty dermatitis of the cere (area around the nostrils over the beak), face and feet.

• Thyroid disorders such as goiter and hypothyroidism occur in budgies.

• Diabetes mellitus (sugar diabetes)

• Chlamydiosis (Psittacosis) is a common cause of respiratory disease in these popular birds.

• Coccidia

• Feather mites

• Hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease) is a problem that often causes death in this species.Usually on an all seed diet

• Lipomas (fatty lumps and tumours)

• Egg binding is seen with some frequency in pet budgerigars

• Psittacine Beak Feather disease (PBFD)

• Polyomavirus

• "French moult" (PBFD and or Polyomavirus)

• Megabacteria

• Feather cysts

• Cataracts

• Male baldness of the heads of certain canaries e.g Norwich canary

• Cnemidokoptic mite (scaley face)infestation called tassle-foot

• Air sac mites of the trachea and air sacs

• Toe or foot causing gangrene (from thin threads around the feet)

• Pox virus (skin disease or death)

• Egg binding

• Cochlosoma

• Megabacteia

• Chlamydia (Psittacosis)

• Mycoplasma

• Chlamydiosis (very common)

• Mycoplasma

• Giardia (these birds are very itchy and violently attack themselves, especially under the wings)

• Trichomoniasis,

• Yeast infection Candida.

• Fatty lumps and tumours in birds on an all-seed diet

• Sudden death is common in lutinos

• Fatty liver disease as a result of the high fat all-seed diets

• Reproductive problems

  • chronic egg laying

  • egg binding

  • egg yolk peritonitis

  • uterine infections

  • egg yolk emboli

• Polyomavirus

• Seed inhalation leading to breathing difficulties

• Psychological feather picking

• Beak and feather disease,

• Tapeworms

• Blood parasites

• Roundworm

• Regression to juvenile behavior (may be a very early sign of severe illness in this species)

• Cloacal prolapses

• Lipomas (benign fatty tumours), are commonly seen Galahs

• Heavy metal poisoning

• Trichomoniasis

• Polyomavirus

• Some birds will switch over to pellets readily within a few days. Others may take 4-6 weeks before conversion is achieved, so it is important to persevere and try a variety of methods.

• Do not just mix the seed and pellets together nor try forcing your bird to eat pellets by starving them with only pellets available during conversion.

Remember that a balanced diet is important for your bird. Not only should bird pellets or crumble be available at all times, but ideally each day your bird should also be supplied a selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc. Grass should be provided daily for all non-fruit-eating parrots. Other foods you can serve include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, mashed potato, chicken bones and other meats.

Conversion

To begin the process remove all food at 6 pm and ensure the cage is clean of any scraps, including grit, so that just water is available overnight.

The next morning, depending on the type of bird, continue the process using one of the following methods:

• friendly, household bird – Take the bird out of its cage and play with the pellets yourself on the table or floor. Pretend to eat them, crush them and move them around in front of the bird for 5-10 minutes. If the bird begins to pick them up and is seen to crush and eat them then conversion is complete. If the bird does not begin to eat the pellets during this time then remove the pellets and 1/2 hour later offer seed again.

• nonfriendly bird – indicate to the bird that it is feeding time either by ringing a bell or using a call (such as "foodtime") and place seed back in with the bird for 1 hour – repeat this again in the evening. Continue this process for 1 week. After 1 week replace the seed in the food container with pellets – if the bird begins to pick them up and is seen to crush and eat them then conversion is complete. If the bird does not begin to eat after 1 hour then remove the pellets and after 1/2 hour offer seed again.

Try for a few days – if you have no success, try again in a week's time.

Notes:

• When attempting to convert larger birds, gradually decrease the amount of sunflower seeds offered throughout the preceding week.

• Once your bird is eating pellets, you only need to have the food container 1/3 full and ensure water is plentiful. This allows your bird to crush the pellets and drop them back into the container. Your bird will then eat the crushed pellets.

• After conversion, most birds, particularly the smaller ones such as cockatiels, still need to have small amounts of seed once or twice a week.

1. What is chronic egg laying?

It is normal for female birds to lay occasional clutches of eggs each year or two. Chronic egg laying occurs when a female bird lays more than the normal number of eggs (this is more than 7 eggs in most species) or more commonly has repeated clutches of eggs, especially in the absence of a mate. Chronic egg laying can deplete the bird's calcium level and cause other nutritional problems.

2. Are certain birds prone to becoming chronic layers?

Cockatiels, lovebirds, and budgerigars. Hand-raised birds who use their owner as mate substitutes commonly develop this problem. However, it can occur in any species of bird.

3. What causes chronic egg laying?

A failure of the bird's hormones to switch off egg laying when it's inappropriate for a bird to be laying. This may be due to:

• inappropriate daylength

• stimulation caused by a perceived/real partner or mate, such as their owner or objects in the cage (eg cuddly toys)

• the presence and shredding of nesting material (eg paper)

• high fat diets

• seasonal changes

• diseases associated with the reproductive organs

4. Are there any health problems associated with chronic egg laying?

Chronic egg laying stresses the bird nutritionally. For birds eating a calcium deficient diet, especially all seeds, hypocalcemia (low blood calcium) may result. This can cause egg binding, seizures or death. Prolapses, in which the oviduct is expelled from the body, may also occur.

5. How is egg laying treated at home?

• The bird needs to be on a nutritionally balanced diet at all times. In addition a calcium supplement may be required during the egg laying period.

• Do not remove eggs as they are laid, as this can actually encourage the bird to lay more eggs. Leave the eggs in the cage for 2 weeks.

• Decrease the number of hours the bird is exposed to light. The cage location may also be changed.

• Obtain a mate for the bird and allow the bird to go through a full breeding cycle. This is often the most effective treatment.

6. How is chronic egg laying treated by your veterinarian?

Medical therapy may be needed. GnRH agonist injections (lucrin) can stop egg laying temporarily.

In some cases surgery to remove the uterus may be necessary. Behavioural consults may also help as the owner can gain an understanding of their bird's reason for chronic egg-laying and take steps to prevent it. Ultimately, the cause of the chronic egg laying needs to be removed.

1. What are leg rings and what are they used for?

A leg ring or band is an identification device applied around the lower leg of a bird. Leg rings can be metal or plastic and often have a unique identification number to distinguish individual birds in a flock or can be used as proof of ownership.

2. What are some of the complications seen with the use of leg rings?

Complications include pressure sores at the site of the ring, infections, bone fractures and/or loss of circulation to the claw leading to tissue necrosis (tissue death). In severe cases the claw may need to be amputated if the leg ring has caused irreversible damage. The leg may dislocate or break if the ring catches onto items such as branches or the cage bars.

3. Is there an alternative identification method available?

We do not recommend the use of leg rings on your bird. Alternatively, you can have your bird microchipped. See microchipping handout.

4. My bird has a leg ring. Should I have it removed?

It is recommended to have unnecessary rings removed. Ring removal should be performed by an avian vet. Most birds require a general anaesthetic to safely remove the ring. This is performed using either special leg ring removal instruments or small high-power tools.

5. Are there any risks involved in removing leg rings?

***Most leg rings are removed without complications***

Possible complications of removing rings that are too tight or have caused damage include:

• Anaesthetic risk: The procedure is generally performed under light anaesthesia which dramatically reduces the risk of complications. There is always a small risk with any anaesthetic.

• Broken legs: Tight rings can cause stress fractures (a fracture that occurs as a result of prolonged pressure applied to the bone). Stress fractures can weaken the bone and make it more prone to breaking especially at the time of ring removal. Some birds will require bandaging after ring removal.

• Haemorrhage (bleeding): Tight leg rings may result in haemorrhage upon removal of the ring. This occurs because the skin tissue has often healed over the ring and removal may reopen the wound. Bandaging and/or fluid therapy may be required to manage bleeding complications.

• Mild tissue damage and burns: Some of the instruments used to remove a leg ring can cause burns or tissue damage, especially when used to remove metal rings. If this occurs pain relief or bandaging may be required.

• Infection: There is always a risk of infection when there is an open wound. Birds at risk are often sent home with a course of antibiotics.

1. What is a microchip?

A microchip is a sterile device the size of a rice grain which contains an electronic identification code. This code is represented on an accompanying barcode label, the appearance and number of which is unique to your bird.

2. Why microchip a bird?

As is the case with dogs and cats, birds can be implanted with a microchip to assist in their identification. If the microchip number is also then registered with the Australasian Animal Registry, a national database is available to assist in the return of the bird to the rightful owner. This is especially important in the case of loss, dispute over ownership or theft.

3. Where is the microchip implanted?

Unlike dogs and cats the microchip is not placed under the skin but rather it is generally implanted in the left breast muscle. However, to ensure a bird has not already been microchipped, your veterinarian will thoroughly examine the entire bird using a microchip scanner.

4. Will the bird feel any discomfort?

As the microchip is placed into the muscle using a sterile needle, a light general anaesthetic is used to minimise any stress to the bird. Your veterinarian will explain the procedure thoroughly to ensure you are fully aware of the potential risk any anaesthesia entails.

5. How long does it take?

The procedure itself only takes a few minutes but to ensure your bird is fully awake after the anaesthesia you may be asked to remain at the clinic for 10-15 minutes. During this time, if you wish to register your bird with the Australasian Animal Registry, you can fill in the appropriate form.

6. How does registration work?

The clinic forwards the completed "Application for Registration" form to the Australasian Animal Registry. The information supplied on the form is entered onto the database and a letter confirming this is posted to you within a few weeks. Should your bird subsequently be handed in to a veterinary clinic it will be scanned and the microchip number that is read will enable the Australasian Animal Registry to retrieve your contact details from the database. It is your responsibility to update your contact details should they change at any stage.

7. What do I do if my bird goes missing?

Contact vets and pet stores in your area, as well as specialist avian vets, to inform them of your loss and that your bird is microchipped. If your bird is taken to any of these places it will be scanned as above and you or your alternate contact will be notified. You should also place notices and/or do letterbox drops in your area to inform your neighbours - don't place the microchip number on these as it is confidential.

8. Can all birds be microchipped?

Any bird weighing 100g or more can be microchipped eg rainbow lorikeets and larger. Smaller birds can also be done but individual cases need to be discussed with your veterinarian.

The list of indoor and outdoor plants has attempted to catalogue the plants considered to be potentially toxic. Some plants have been included on this list even if there is a remote possibility of concern.

Pot plants with milky sap should be avoided.

Amaryllis

American Yew

Autumn Crocus

(Meadow Saffron)

Avocado

Azalea

Balsam Pear

Baneberry

Bean Plants

Bird of Paradise

Black Elderberry (not berry)

Black Locus

Bleeding Heart

Bloodroot

Blue-green Algae

Boxwood

Bracken Fern

Buckthorn

Bulb Flowers

Burdock

Buttercup

Caladium

Calla Lily

Castor Bean (Castor Oil Plant)

Chalice Vine

Cherry Trees (Not pulp of fruit)

Christmas Candle

Christmas Cherry (berries)

Clematis

Coffee Plants

Comfrey

Coral Plant

Cowslip

Crotacaria Sp.

Crown Vetch

Cycads

Daffodil

Daphne

Datura (berries)

Death Amanita

Dieffenbachia

Elderberry

Elephant’s Ear (Taro)

English Holly

English Yew

Euonymus

Evergreen (most)

False Hellebore

Felt Plant

Firethorn

Flame Tree

Fly Agaric Mushrooms

Foxglove

Golden Chain

Hemlock

Holly

Honey Locust

Henbane

Horse Beans

Horse Chestnut

Hyacinth

Hydrangea

Indian Turnip

Iris

Ivy

Jack-In-The-Pulpit

Japanese Yew

Jasmine

Java Bean (Glorybean)

Jerusalem Chery

Jimson weed

Juniper

Lantana

Larkspur

Laurels

Lily-Of-The-Valley

Lobelia

Locoweed

Locusts

Lords-and-Ladies

Lupine

Marijuana

May Apple

Mescal Bean

Milkweed

Mistletoe

Mock Orange

Monkshood

Moonseed

Morning Glory

Mountain Laurel

Narcissus

Nettles

Nightshade

Nutmeg

Oleander

Periwinkle

Philodendron

Pigweed

Poinsettia

Poison Hemlock

Poison Ivy

Poison Oak

Pokeweed

Potato (new shoots)

Privet

Purple Sesbane

Rain Tree

Red Maple

Rhododendron

Rhubarb (leaves)

Rosary Peas

Sandbox Tree

Skunk Cabbage

Snow Flake

Snow-On-The-Mountain

Snowdrop

SorrelSpurges

Spindle Tree (berries)

Sweet Pea (plant)

Tobacco

Vetch

Virginia Creeper

Water Hemlock

Wattle

Western Yew

White Cedar

Wisteria

Yam Bean

Yew

If in doubt remove the plant!

In general, birds are great travellers. Most tolerate cars and aeroplanes very well and some actually love the excitement of travel. Planning ahead will ensure a safe, enjoyable trip for you and your bird. You may be taking the bird to the veterinarian, moving to a new residence Travelling long distances. What sort of container should I use to travel in the car? All birds can be transported in a cage as long as it fits in the car. It is preferable not to allow the bird to roam freely in the car while driving. You may wish to buy a small cage just for travel. Special pet carriers may be purchased from the pet store or your veterinarian. These carriers are usually rugged, conveniently sized for carrying, secure and comfortable for your pet. Small birds such as budgies, canaries or cockatiels may be put in a small box with small holes in the lid to provide air for short trips. The cover should be secured to prevent accidental escape.

Remember, many birds are capable of chewing their way out of the box. Toys and swings should be removed from the cage to prevent injury to the bird during rough trips. All containers should be secured in a car seat belt to prevent movement or shifting. It is not necessary to cover your bird for travelling

What about bad weather? You may still travel in bad weather. In cold weather the car must be prewarmed and the cage or carrier covered well using towels, blankets, duvets or jackets. In hot weather the bird must have some ventilation or fresh air and should never be left unattended in the car. Even birds naturally from a hot climate can suffer heat stroke very quickly. What if I travel by aeroplane? It is up to you to contact the specific airline and determine what their policies allow. Often a pet carrier will fit under the seat.

Food and water should be available. One suggestion is to freeze the water prior to departure so the water will not spill early in the trip and will be accessible to the bird as it thaws out. Succulent fruits such as oranges should be provided for nutrition and fluids. It is not advised to use tranquillisers or sedatives on birds during travel Certain hotels or motels will not allow pets and should be consulted ahead of time.

Can I travel out of the country with my bird? It is essential that you contact the animal quarantine authorities for information on the country you are planning to enter. All countries have their own rules and regulations with respect to travelling, importing, endangered species and disease control. Record the name of the person supplying the information as reference should you encounter problems. It is best to obtain this information well in advance of your trip and in writing.

Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick. Depending on the bird, 6 monthly or yearly health checks are recommended to ensure that your bird is not masking any illness or injury.

The avian vet will conduct a physical examination of your bird to check for any obvious signs of ill health. Advice on diet, husbandry and behaviour will also be provided. Microchipping of your bird can also be performed.

Depending on this initial examination, the vet may suggest one or more of the following tests:

Bacteria, fungi and parasite screening

• crop and faecal smears – Smears examined under the microscope to determine the presence of parasites and fungi (giardia, trichomonads, worms, coccidia, megabacteria) and bacterial infections. Faecal flotation may also be required for certain parasites.

• Gram staining for bacteria – Bacteria are normally found in the gastro-intestinal tract in certain types and numbers. Special staining of the crop and faecal smear is done to determine some of the characteristics of these bacteria and fungi such as relative numbers and shape.

• Culture and sensitivity – The vet may recommend sending a culture and sensitivity test swab of any abnormal bacteria or fungi to the laboratory to determine exactly which type of bacteria is present and which medication to use.

Blood tests

Infectious diseases

• Chlamydophila (chlamydia) test – This determines the presence of the chlamydophila organism and/or previous exposure. This illness can also be transmitted to humans.

• Polyoma and Psittacine Beak & Feather Disease (PBFD) – These are highly recommended in young birds to determine exposure to these viruses and the level of immunity.

Other laboratory blood tests available

• Haematology – Red and white blood cell count;

  1) To determine the personal profile of your bird so that normal values for your bird are established. A change in these values at a later date can be used to diagnose any disease process; and/or

  2) To diagnose an underlying disease process. Any imbalance in the proportion of white blood cells indicates illness.

• Biochemistry – This will provide information on whether the internal organs such as the kidney, liver, pancreas and intestine are functioning normally.

• DNA sexing