Feeding

• A balanced diet is important for your bird. Bird pellets or crumble should be available at all times. If your bird is on a seed diet it should not eat only one type of seed and should have no more than 10-15 sunflower seeds per day.

• Ideally, each day your bird should be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc.

• Grass should be provided daily for all non-fruit eating parrots.

• Other foods you can serve include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, mashed potato, chicken bones and other meats.

• Fruit may be also offered but many birds will not eat it.

• Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly.

• Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

• Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations.

• Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia is important as it is very common in parrots and can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Heavy Metal Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, etc.

Cages and aviaries should be stainless steel, powder baked or the new BHP polymer covered wire. Scrubbing galvanised wire with vinegar and a wire brush and then rinsing off and then repeating will minimise the zinc toxicity but not eliminate it.

Cages

• Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

• Perches should be made of natural wood.

• Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

• Avoid using metal objects such as toys, food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

• Add fresh greenery to the cage regularly (eg gum leaves and grasses).

General Information

The Peach-faced lovebird (Agapornis roseicollis) is the largest and most commonly kept of the nine species of lovebirds. This small, colourful, short-tailed parrot originates from Africa.

They are incredibly inquisitive, playful and possess a delightful, spirited sassiness. They are in general, poor talkers but commonly full of delightful chatter. They love to hide under paper, on shoulders under long hair or even in pockets.

Although not generally destructive, they do enjoy chewing. Providing non-toxic fresh branches, pieces of paper and pet-safe toys will afford many hours of entertainment for this curious little pet.

During breeding, lovebirds will take strips of chewed paper or other material, tuck it under the feathers of the wing and rump, then carry them back to the nest. This repetitive behavior is often seen in lone female birds.

A "pair" of lovebirds will often bond strongly to each other even if they are the same sex. As a "pair", they usually live very compatibly with each other and may even go through the antics of nest building.

Despite the name "love" bird, these animals can be very territorial and aggressive in a colony situation or with other bird species.

Other common species of Lovebirds are the Black-masked Lovebird, Blue-masked Lovebird, and Fischer’s Lovebird.

Purchasing a Lovebird

Lovebirds may be purchased from a bird shop or a reputable breeder.

When selecting a lovebird, try to choose a young bird as it will be easier to tame and train. Older, wild, colony or parent raised birds may prove difficult to tame.

Hand raised babies often make better pets since they have been completely socialized with humans. Young birds are easier to tame and adapt readily to new environments and situations.

Your new bird should be exposed early to different events (young and old people, males and females, other pets, car trips, visits to the veterinarian, etc.) to help promote a calm, well adjusted pet.

The lively, alert bird that is not easily frightened is more likely a healthy bird.

After purchasing your new bird, have it examined by your veterinarian.

Veterinary Care

Lovebirds require regular, routine veterinary health check-ups.

Your veterinarian can perform a physical examination, grooming (beak, nail or feather trim )and laboratory tests as needed. During these semi-annual check-ups, health, nutritional and maintenance issues can be identified and addressed.

Veterinary check-ups help prevent disease.

Colour

Mature

• depends on the species; predominantly green with orange, yellow, blue, black, white or grey markings, usually more dominant on the head, neck and rump

Immature

• similar to the adult

Sexing

Mature

• no external sex differences

• females weigh slightly more than the males

• surgical sexing or blood testing methods must be employed to differentiate between the sexes

Immature

• no external sex differences

Weight

average 40 - 60 grams

Size

average 13 - 16.5 cm in length

Life span

6 -12 years (maximum 25 years)

Diet

Pelleted food and fresh foods and vegetables

Breeding

• sexual maturity - 8-12 months

• prolific breeders in captivity

Brood Size

3 - 7 whitish eggs hatch in 18 - 24 days, young leave the nest in 5-6 weeks

Cage

minimum 2 ft x 2 ft x 3 ft (60 cm x 60 cm x 90 cm)

General Information

The budgerigar (Melopsittacus undulates), also referred to as a parakeet or more commonly a budgie, is the most popular pet bird worldwide.

Budgies originate from the drier regions of Australia. Their natural habitat is dry open plains, wood lots bordering waterways and sparsely wooded grasslands.

Budgies are generally very social, gentle and affectionate in nature. These loving companions interact well with most members of the family. Budgies are inquisitive, active, free spirits who enjoy flying, playing and chewing.

Non-toxic pet-safe toys should be provided for your budgie’s entertainment.

Although their voice is not as clear as some of the larger parrots, budgies have the capacity to develop extensive vocabularies. Talking or mimicking requires some effort and training. Males seem to talk better than females although both are capable. One endearing trait of a budgie is its cheerful whistling and chatter.

Budgies can be finger trained and some even enjoy head scratches and petting.

Purchasing a Budgie

Budgies may be purchased from a birdshop or a reputable breeder.

Try to choose a young bird as it may be easier to tame and train. Older, wild, colony or parent raised birds may prove difficult to tame.

Hand raised babies often make better pets since they have been completely socialized with humans. Young birds are easier to tame and adapt readily to new environments and situations.

Your new bird should be exposed early to different events (young and old people, males and females, other pets, car trips, visits to the veterinarian, etc.) to help promote a calm, well adjusted pet. The lively, alert bird that is not easily frightened is more likely a healthy bird.

After purchasing your new bird, have it examined by your veterinarian.

Veterinary Care

Budgies require regular, routine veterinary health check-ups. Your veterinarian can perform a physical examination, grooming (beak, nail or feather trim ) and laboratory tests as needed.

During these semi-annual check-ups, health, nutritional and maintenance issues can be identified and addressed.

Veterinary check-ups help prevent disease and will aid in the maintenance of a long lasting, healthy relationship between you and your bird.

Colour

Mature

• the wild bird is basically green with yellow on the face. Black and yellow barring is found on the wings and head, black spots across the throat.

• domestic varieties show infinite combinations and shades of green, yellow, blue, mauve, slate and white.

• eye (iris) is white

• legs grey/blue with a reptilian pattern

Immature

• duller colour, black barring on forehead, throat spots may be absent

• iris dark grey

Sexing

Mature

• feathering between sexes is similar

• the male’s cere (featherless area around the nostrils) is rich blue in colour

• the female’s cere is pale blue, pinky blue or brown and sometimes crusty in the breeding female

• cere colour may not identify the sexes 100% and may vary with domestic colour variations

Immature

• difficult to sex

Weight

average 30 - 35 grams, large varieties 35 - 45 grams

Size

average 18 - 19 cm in length

Life span

6 - 10 years (maximum 18 years)

Diet

Crumble as well as fresh food and vegetables

Breeding

• sexual maturity 6 months old

• gregarious birds that breed best if several pairs are kept within sight and sound of each other

• naturally breeding in the spring but most will easily breed any time of year

Brood Size

3 - 6 white eggs will hatch in 18 days on average, young leave the nest in 4 -5 weeks

Cage

minimum 30 cm x 30 cm x 60 cm

Feeding

• A balanced diet is important for your bird, the core of which is a good quality pigeon mix (seed and legumes). Seed/legume based diets can be supplemented with brewer’s yeast and wheat germ oil 2-3 times per week.

• Ideally, each day your bird should be supplied a balanced selection of chopped fresh vegetables such as corn, peas, spinach, silverbeet, kale, green beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, sprouts, etc.

• Fruit can be offered in small quantities but must be limited due to high sugar content.

• Pasta, rice, boiled egg and potato may be offered 2-3 times per week. Remember to give only in small quantities relative to the bird’s size.

• Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee, avocado, onion or rhubarb leaves as these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

• Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once a year.

• Book a yearly health check-up to detect general health problems. At this time, testing for common pigeon related illnesses will be done for trichomonas (canker), coccidian and intestinal parasites.

• Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia is important as it is very common in pigeons and can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Paramyxovirus (PMV) vaccine

All pigeons should receive the PMV vaccine in the first year of life with two vaccines 4-8 weeks apart. After this a booster is required annually for continued protection.

Heavy metal poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, etc.

Cages

• Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

• Perches should be made of natural wood and various sizes provided.

• Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

• Avoid using metal objects such as toys, food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

Feeding

• A balanced diet is important for your bird. Lorikeet wet and/or dry mix should be available at all times. Fresh native plants should be supplied daily.

• Ideally, each day your bird should be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc.

• Other foods you can serve include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, mashed potato, chicken bones and other meats.

• Fruit may be also offered many birds will eat it. Australian flowers (grevillia and bottlebrush etc.) may also be offered.

• Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

• Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly.

• Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

• Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations.

• Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia is important as it is very common in parrots and can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Heavy Metal Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, etc.

Cages and aviaries should be stainless steel, powder baked or the new BHP polymer covered wire. Scrubbing galvanised wire with vinegar and a wire brush and then rinsing off and then repeating will minimise the zinc toxicity but not eliminate it.

Cages

• Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

• Perches should be made of natural wood.

• Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

• Avoid using metal objects such as toys, food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

• Add fresh greenery to the cage regularly (eg gum leaves and grasses).

Feeding

• A balanced diet is important for your bird. Bird pellets or crumble should be available at all times. If your bird is on a seed diet it should not eat only one type of seed and should have no more than 10-15 sunflower seeds per day.

• Ideally, each day your bird should be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc.

• Grass should be provided daily for all non-fruit eating parrots.

• Other foods you can serve include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, mashed potato, chicken bones and other meats.

• Fruits may be also offered and many birds will eat them.

• Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

• Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly.

• Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

• Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations.

• Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia is important as it is very common in parrots and can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Heavy Metal Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, etc.

Cages and aviaries should be stainless steel, powder baked or the new BHP polymer covered wire. Scrubbing galvanised wire with vinegar and a wire brush and then rinsing off and then repeating will minimise the zinc toxicity but not eliminate it.

Cages

• Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

• Perches should be made of natural wood.

• Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

• Avoid using metal objects such as toys, food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

• Add fresh greenery to the cage regularly (eg gum leaves and grasses).

Feeding

• A balanced diet is important for your bird. Turkey and/or chicken pellets should be available at all times and should be the majority of the diet. Duck pellets are used for birds being bred for the production of liver pate and should not be used for pet ducks.

• Feed and water containers should be at least 10cm deep and 30cm square to allow for the duck's "shovelling" feeding action.

• Access to grass and grazing is essential, as is fresh water, as ducks need to drink 4-5 times the weight of the food they eat.

• Your duck may be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, silverbeet, etc.

• Seed, wheat and corn etc. should be fed as a treat and should not form the majority of the diet

• Do not give your duck chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

• Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly. If eggs are to be eaten care must be taken to check withholding periods.

• Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

• Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations.

• Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia and a similar disease, mycoplasma, are very common in ducks. Chlamydia can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

• Botulism, caused by a bacterial toxin, is also observed in ducks and immediate veterinary care is essential. It is usually contracted by consumption of rotten food, decaying vegetation, or wading in stagnant water. The first sign of poisoning is usually a drooping head with progression to paralysis of the wings, legs and neck.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Heavy Metal Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, old material in the yard, sump oil, flaking paint and high lead soils in the inner city etc.

Housing

• A nesting area should be provided

• Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

• Avoid using metal objects such as galvanised food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

Feeding

• A balanced diet is important for your bird. Layer pellets or crumble should be available at all times and should be the majority of the diet.

• Your bird may be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc.

• Seed, wheat and corn etc. should be fed as a treat and should not form the majority of the diet

• Other foods you can serve include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, mashed potato, bones and other meats.

• Fruits may be also offered and some birds will eat them.

• Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

• Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly. If egg are to be eaten care must be taken to check withholding periods

• Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

• Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations.

• Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia and a similar disease, mycoplasma, are very common in chickens. Chlamydia can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

• Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Heavy Metal Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, old material in the yard, sump oil, flaking paint and high lead soils in the inner city etc.

Cages

• Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

• A roosting area should be provided

• Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

• Avoid using metal objects such as galvanised food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

• Allow the birds out daily to "scratch" and forage.

Feeding

• A balanced diet is important for your bird. Bird crumble should be available at all times. If your bird is on a seed diet it should not eat only one type of seed.

• Ideally, each day your bird should be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc.

• Grass should be provided daily.

• Other foods you can serve include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, and mashed potato.

• Fruit may be also offered including apples, bananas and oranges.

• Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

• Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly.

• Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

• Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations.

• Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia is important as it is very common in parrots and can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, etc.

Cages and aviaries should be stainless steel, powder baked or the new BHP polymer covered wire. Scrubbing galvanised wire with vinegar and a wire brush and then rinsing off and then repeating will minimise the zinc toxicity but not eliminate it.

Aerosol (airborne) toxins are extremely important canaries. Do not smoke near the bird be cautious with any aerosol sprays.

Cages

• Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

• Perches should be made of natural wood.

• Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

• Avoid using metal objects such as toys, food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

• Add fresh greenery to the cage regularly (eg gum leaves and grasses).

• Feeding
  A balanced diet is important for your bird. Bird pellets or crumble should be available at all times. If your bird is on a seed diet it should not eat only one type of seed.

• Ideally, each day your bird should be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc.

• Grass should be provided daily for all non-fruit eating parrots.

• Other foods you can serve include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, mashed potato, chicken bones and other meats.

• Fruit may be also offered but many birds will not eat it.

• Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

• Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly.

• Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

• Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations.

• Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia is important as it is very common in parrots and can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Heavy Metal Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, etc.

Cages and aviaries should be stainless steel, powder baked or the new BHP polymer covered wire. Scrubbing galvanised wire with vinegar and a wire brush and then rinsing off and then repeating will minimise the zinc toxicity but not eliminate it.

Cages

• Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

• Perches should be made of natural wood.

• Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

• Avoid using metal objects such as toys, food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

• Add fresh greenery to the cage regularly (eg gum leaves and grasses).

Feeding

• A balanced diet is important for your bird. Bird pellets or crumble should be available at all times. If your bird is on a seed diet, it should not eat only one type of seed and should have no more than 10-15 sunflower seeds per day.

• Ideally, each day your bird should be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc.

• Grass should be provided daily for all non-fruit eating parrots.

• Other foods you can serve in small amounts as treats include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, mashed potato, chicken bones and other meats.

• Fruit may be also offered but many birds will not eat it.

• Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

• Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly.

• Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

• Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations. Annual blood screening is recommended in certain pet birds.

• Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia is important as it is very common in parrots and can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Heavy Metal Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, etc.

Cages and aviaries should be stainless steel, powder baked or the new BHP polymer covered wire. Repeatedly scrubbing galvanised wire with vinegar using a wire brush and then rinsing off with water will minimise the zinc toxicity but not eliminate it.

Cages

• Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

• Perches should be made of natural wood and various sizes provided.

• Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

• Avoid using metal objects such as toys, food bowls (except stainless steel) or plasticcoated bag ties in the cage.

• Add fresh greenery to the cage regularly (e.g. gum leaves and grasses).

1. What are the safest toys and accessories?

It is important that birds have toys to play, explore and interact with. However, not all toys sold for pet birds are safe. The safest toys to use include hard plastics, untreated wood and paper, and native branches and flowers. Make sure your bird has a variety of toys and even hide some treats in them so they can spend their day foraging and exploring.

2. Why are many soft toys and accessories not safe?

Many birds enjoy rope toys and accessories - however they are not always safe toys. Rope toys, perches, snugglies and happy huts have small fibres. When these fibres are chewed and swallowed, they commonly lead to blockages in the ventriculus (stomach) or crop.

Cockatiels, conures and lorikeets are the species most commonly seen with these conditions, though problems may be seen in any species. The blockages in the crop or ventriculus are very serious medical emergencies and may be fatal.

3. Are metal toys safe?

Heavy metal poisoning is a very common condition in birds. The most common metals involved include lead, zinc or copper. Toys which are usually the source of these metals include galvanized or copper bells, metal keys, lead sinkers and painted lead toys. Rusty toys are considered more hazardous. Avoid metal twist-ties to secure cage items as they may contain heavy metals.

4. Which plastic toys are safe?

Most unpainted hard plastic toys are non-toxic. Problems may arise when there are metal balls inside the toy as many birds are able to chew the toy open and get to the metal balls. Be careful of painted plastic toys as some paints may contain toxins including lead.

5. Which wooden and paper toys are safe?

Wooden toys coloured with vegetable dye are usually safe. Avoid fibrous cage accessories such as coconut husks or wood shavings as these often cause blockages. The cardboard inners of toilet rolls make great toys which are easily replaced when chewed and destroyed.

Do not let your birds chew on treated pine or MDF (compressed wood chip) as they are toxic.

6. What are some safe natural toys and accessories?

Banksia, eucalyptus, acacia, grevillea, mallee, casuarina, melaleuca, fresh grasses and hakia are all groups of plants your bird will enjoy. Always rinse the plants and avoid those which have been sprayed with pesticides or plants from the side of a busy road. Natural toys are great as the birds can destroy them completely and then a new branch or flower put in to replace the old ones. This encourages the birds’ natural behaviour and creates benefits for their mental and physical health.