CARING FOR YOUR PARROT

Feeding

  • A balanced diet is important for your bird. Bird pellets or crumble should be available at all times. If your bird is on a seed diet it should not eat only one type of seed and should have no more than 10-15 sunflower seeds per day.

  • Ideally, each day your bird should be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc.

  • Grass should be provided daily for all non-fruit eating parrots.

  • Other foods you can serve include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, mashed potato, chicken bones and other meats.

  • Fruit may be also offered but many birds will not eat it.

  • Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly.

  • Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

  • Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations.

  • Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia is important as it is very common in parrots and can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Heavy Metal Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, etc.

Cages and aviaries should be stainless steel, powder baked or the new BHP polymer covered wire. Scrubbing galvanised wire with vinegar and a wire brush and then rinsing off and then repeating will minimise the zinc toxicity but not eliminate it.

Cages

  • Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

  • Perches should be made of natural wood.

  • Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

  • Avoid using metal objects such as toys, food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

  • Add fresh greenery to the cage regularly (eg gum leaves and grasses).

CHOOSING A LOVEBIRD

General Information

The Peach-faced lovebird (Agapornis roseicollis) is the largest and most commonly kept of the nine species of lovebirds. This small, colourful, short-tailed parrot originates from Africa.

They are incredibly inquisitive, playful and possess a delightful, spirited sassiness. They are in general, poor talkers but commonly full of delightful chatter. They love to hide under paper, on shoulders under long hair or even in pockets.

Although not generally destructive, they do enjoy chewing. Providing non-toxic fresh branches, pieces of paper and pet-safe toys will afford many hours of entertainment for this curious little pet.

During breeding, lovebirds will take strips of chewed paper or other material, tuck it under the feathers of the wing and rump, then carry them back to the nest. This repetitive behavior is often seen in lone female birds.

A "pair" of lovebirds will often bond strongly to each other even if they are the same sex. As a "pair", they usually live very compatibly with each other and may even go through the antics of nest building.

Despite the name "love" bird, these animals can be very territorial and aggressive in a colony situation or with other bird species.

Other common species of Lovebirds are the Black-masked Lovebird, Blue-masked Lovebird, and Fischer’s Lovebird.

Purchasing a Lovebird

Lovebirds may be purchased from a bird shop or a reputable breeder.

When selecting a lovebird, try to choose a young bird as it will be easier to tame and train. Older, wild, colony or parent raised birds may prove difficult to tame.

Hand raised babies often make better pets since they have been completely socialized with humans. Young birds are easier to tame and adapt readily to new environments and situations.

Your new bird should be exposed early to different events (young and old people, males and females, other pets, car trips, visits to the veterinarian, etc.) to help promote a calm, well adjusted pet.

The lively, alert bird that is not easily frightened is more likely a healthy bird.

After purchasing your new bird, have it examined by your veterinarian.

Veterinary Care

Lovebirds require regular, routine veterinary health check-ups.

Your veterinarian can perform a physical examination, grooming (beak, nail or feather trim )and laboratory tests as needed. During these semi-annual check-ups, health, nutritional and maintenance issues can be identified and addressed.

Veterinary check-ups help prevent disease.

Colour

Mature

  • depends on the species; predominantly green with orange, yellow, blue, black, white or grey markings, usually more dominant on the head, neck and rump

Immature

  • similar to the adult

Sexing

Mature

  • no external sex differences

  • females weigh slightly more than the males

  • surgical sexing or blood testing methods must be employed to differentiate between the sexes

Immature

  • no external sex differences

Weight

average 40 - 60 grams

Size

average 13 - 16.5 cm in length

Life span

6 -12 years (maximum 25 years)

Diet

Pelleted food and fresh foods and vegetables

Breeding

  • sexual maturity - 8-12 months

  • prolific breeders in captivity

Brood Size

3 - 7 whitish eggs hatch in 18 - 24 days, young leave the nest in 5-6 weeks

Cage

minimum 2 ft x 2 ft x 3 ft (60 cm x 60 cm x 90 cm)

CHOOSING A BUDGERIGAR (BUDGIE)

General Information

The budgerigar (Melopsittacus undulates), also referred to as a parakeet or more commonly a budgie, is the most popular pet bird worldwide.

Budgies originate from the drier regions of Australia. Their natural habitat is dry open plains, wood lots bordering waterways and sparsely wooded grasslands.

Budgies are generally very social, gentle and affectionate in nature. These loving companions interact well with most members of the family. Budgies are inquisitive, active, free spirits who enjoy flying, playing and chewing.

Non-toxic pet-safe toys should be provided for your budgie’s entertainment.

Although their voice is not as clear as some of the larger parrots, budgies have the capacity to develop extensive vocabularies. Talking or mimicking requires some effort and training. Males seem to talk better than females although both are capable. One endearing trait of a budgie is its cheerful whistling and chatter.

Budgies can be finger trained and some even enjoy head scratches and petting.

Purchasing a Budgie

Budgies may be purchased from a birdshop or a reputable breeder.

Try to choose a young bird as it may be easier to tame and train. Older, wild, colony or parent raised birds may prove difficult to tame.

Hand raised babies often make better pets since they have been completely socialized with humans. Young birds are easier to tame and adapt readily to new environments and situations.

Your new bird should be exposed early to different events (young and old people, males and females, other pets, car trips, visits to the veterinarian, etc.) to help promote a calm, well adjusted pet. The lively, alert bird that is not easily frightened is more likely a healthy bird.

After purchasing your new bird, have it examined by your veterinarian.

Veterinary Care

Budgies require regular, routine veterinary health check-ups. Your veterinarian can perform a physical examination, grooming (beak, nail or feather trim ) and laboratory tests as needed.

During these semi-annual check-ups, health, nutritional and maintenance issues can be identified and addressed.

Veterinary check-ups help prevent disease and will aid in the maintenance of a long lasting, healthy relationship between you and your bird.

Colour

Mature

  • the wild bird is basically green with yellow on the face. Black and yellow barring is found on the wings and head, black spots across the throat.

  • domestic varieties show infinite combinations and shades of green, yellow, blue, mauve, slate and white.

  • eye (iris) is white

  • legs grey/blue with a reptilian pattern

Immature

  • duller colour, black barring on forehead, throat spots may be absent

  • iris dark grey

Sexing

Mature

  • feathering between sexes is similar

  • the male’s cere (featherless area around the nostrils) is rich blue in colour

  • the female’s cere is pale blue, pinky blue or brown and sometimes crusty in the breeding female

  • cere colour may not identify the sexes 100% and may vary with domestic colour variations

Immature

  • difficult to sex

Weight

average 30 - 35 grams, large varieties 35 - 45 grams

Size

average 18 - 19 cm in length

Life span

6 - 10 years (maximum 18 years)

Diet

Crumble as well as fresh food and vegetables

Breeding

  • sexual maturity 6 months old

  • gregarious birds that breed best if several pairs are kept within sight and sound of each other

  • naturally breeding in the spring but most will easily breed any time of year

Brood Size

3 - 6 white eggs will hatch in 18 days on average, young leave the nest in 4 -5 weeks

Cage

minimum 30 cm x 30 cm x 60 cm

CARING FOR YOUR PIGEON

Feeding

  • A balanced diet is important for your bird, the core of which is a good quality pigeon mix (seed and legumes). Seed/legume based diets can be supplemented with brewer’s yeast and wheat germ oil 2-3 times per week.

  • Ideally, each day your bird should be supplied a balanced selection of chopped fresh vegetables such as corn, peas, spinach, silverbeet, kale, green beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, sprouts, etc.

  • Fruit can be offered in small quantities but must be limited due to high sugar content.

  • Pasta, rice, boiled egg and potato may be offered 2-3 times per week. Remember to give only in small quantities relative to the bird’s size.

  • Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee, avocado, onion or rhubarb leaves as these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

  • Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once a year.

  • Book a yearly health check-up to detect general health problems. At this time, testing for common pigeon related illnesses will be done for trichomonas (canker), coccidian and intestinal parasites.

  • Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia is important as it is very common in pigeons and can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Paramyxovirus (PMV) vaccine

All pigeons should receive the PMV vaccine in the first year of life with two vaccines 4-8 weeks apart. After this a booster is required annually for continued protection.

Heavy metal poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, etc.

Cages

  • Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

  • Perches should be made of natural wood and various sizes provided.

  • Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

  • Avoid using metal objects such as toys, food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

CARING FOR YOUR LORIKEET

Feeding

  • A balanced diet is important for your bird. Lorikeet wet and/or dry mix should be available at all times. Fresh native plants should be supplied daily.

  • Ideally, each day your bird should be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc.

  • Other foods you can serve include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, mashed potato, chicken bones and other meats.

  • Fruit may be also offered many birds will eat it. Australian flowers (grevillia and bottlebrush etc.) may also be offered.

  • Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

  • Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly.

  • Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

  • Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations.

  • Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia is important as it is very common in parrots and can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Heavy Metal Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, etc.

Cages and aviaries should be stainless steel, powder baked or the new BHP polymer covered wire. Scrubbing galvanised wire with vinegar and a wire brush and then rinsing off and then repeating will minimise the zinc toxicity but not eliminate it.

Cages

  • Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

  • Perches should be made of natural wood.

  • Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

  • Avoid using metal objects such as toys, food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

  • Add fresh greenery to the cage regularly (eg gum leaves and grasses).

CARING FOR SEED AND SEED/FRUIT EATING PARROT (Asiatics, Eclectus, etc.)

Feeding

  • A balanced diet is important for your bird. Bird pellets or crumble should be available at all times. If your bird is on a seed diet it should not eat only one type of seed and should have no more than 10-15 sunflower seeds per day.

  • Ideally, each day your bird should be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc.

  • Grass should be provided daily for all non-fruit eating parrots.

  • Other foods you can serve include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, mashed potato, chicken bones and other meats.

  • Fruits may be also offered and many birds will eat them.

  • Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

  • Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly.

  • Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

  • Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations.

  • Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia is important as it is very common in parrots and can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Heavy Metal Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, etc.

Cages and aviaries should be stainless steel, powder baked or the new BHP polymer covered wire. Scrubbing galvanised wire with vinegar and a wire brush and then rinsing off and then repeating will minimise the zinc toxicity but not eliminate it.

Cages

  • Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

  • Perches should be made of natural wood.

  • Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

  • Avoid using metal objects such as toys, food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

  • Add fresh greenery to the cage regularly (eg gum leaves and grasses).

CARING FOR YOUR DUCK

Feeding

  • A balanced diet is important for your bird. Turkey and/or chicken pellets should be available at all times and should be the majority of the diet. Duck pellets are used for birds being bred for the production of liver pate and should not be used for pet ducks.

  • Feed and water containers should be at least 10cm deep and 30cm square to allow for the duck's "shovelling" feeding action.

  • Access to grass and grazing is essential, as is fresh water, as ducks need to drink 4-5 times the weight of the food they eat.

  • Your duck may be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, silverbeet, etc.

  • Seed, wheat and corn etc. should be fed as a treat and should not form the majority of the diet

  • Do not give your duck chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

  • Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly. If eggs are to be eaten care must be taken to check withholding periods.

  • Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

  • Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations.

  • Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia and a similar disease, mycoplasma, are very common in ducks. Chlamydia can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

  • Botulism, caused by a bacterial toxin, is also observed in ducks and immediate veterinary care is essential. It is usually contracted by consumption of rotten food, decaying vegetation, or wading in stagnant water. The first sign of poisoning is usually a drooping head with progression to paralysis of the wings, legs and neck.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Heavy Metal Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, old material in the yard, sump oil, flaking paint and high lead soils in the inner city etc.

Housing

  • A nesting area should be provided

  • Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

  • Avoid using metal objects such as galvanised food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

CARING FOR YOUR CHICKEN

Feeding

  • A balanced diet is important for your bird. Layer pellets or crumble should be available at all times and should be the majority of the diet.

  • Your bird may be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc.

  • Seed, wheat and corn etc. should be fed as a treat and should not form the majority of the diet

  • Other foods you can serve include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, mashed potato, bones and other meats.

  • Fruits may be also offered and some birds will eat them.

  • Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

  • Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly. If egg are to be eaten care must be taken to check withholding periods

  • Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

  • Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations.

  • Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia and a similar disease, mycoplasma, are very common in chickens. Chlamydia can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

  • Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Heavy Metal Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, old material in the yard, sump oil, flaking paint and high lead soils in the inner city etc.

Cages

  • Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

  • A roosting area should be provided

  • Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

  • Avoid using metal objects such as galvanised food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

  • Allow the birds out daily to "scratch" and forage.

CARING FOR YOUR CANARY

Feeding

  • A balanced diet is important for your bird. Bird crumble should be available at all times. If your bird is on a seed diet it should not eat only one type of seed.

  • Ideally, each day your bird should be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc.

  • Grass should be provided daily.

  • Other foods you can serve include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, and mashed potato.

  • Fruit may be also offered including apples, bananas and oranges.

  • Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

  • Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly.

  • Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

  • Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations.

  • Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia is important as it is very common in parrots and can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, etc.

Cages and aviaries should be stainless steel, powder baked or the new BHP polymer covered wire. Scrubbing galvanised wire with vinegar and a wire brush and then rinsing off and then repeating will minimise the zinc toxicity but not eliminate it.

Aerosol (airborne) toxins are extremely important canaries. Do not smoke near the bird be cautious with any aerosol sprays.

Cages

  • Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

  • Perches should be made of natural wood.

  • Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

  • Avoid using metal objects such as toys, food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

  • Add fresh greenery to the cage regularly (eg gum leaves and grasses).

CARING FOR YOUR BUDGIE
  • Feeding
    A balanced diet is important for your bird. Bird pellets or crumble should be available at all times. If your bird is on a seed diet it should not eat only one type of seed.

  • Ideally, each day your bird should be supplied a balanced selection of fresh vegetables such as spinach, beans, parsley, broccoli, carrots, silverbeet, etc.

  • Grass should be provided daily for all non-fruit eating parrots.

  • Other foods you can serve include pasta, rice, toast, eggs, mashed potato, chicken bones and other meats.

  • Fruit may be also offered but many birds will not eat it.

  • Do not give your bird chocolate, coffee or avocado – these are toxic to birds.

Health Care

  • Worm every 3-6 months and have a crop tube worming at least once yearly.

  • Spray for mites every 6-12 weeks.

  • Book a yearly check-up to detect general health problems, chlamydia and parasite infestations.

  • Test or treat for chlamydia annually. Chlamydia is important as it is very common in parrots and can spread to humans. Birds may show signs such as sneezing, weight loss and/or green watery droppings, or no signs at all.

Remember – Birds often mask the signs of illness and may only show signs of being unwell when they are very sick.

Heavy Metal Poisoning

Heavy metal poisoning is extremely common. Lead, zinc and copper are the metals involved and are found in galvanised wire, paint, copper wires, metal ties, rusty metal toys, costume jewellery, solder, etc.

Cages and aviaries should be stainless steel, powder baked or the new BHP polymer covered wire. Scrubbing galvanised wire with vinegar and a wire brush and then rinsing off and then repeating will minimise the zinc toxicity but not eliminate it.

Cages

  • Do not put sandpaper on perches or on the floor.

  • Perches should be made of natural wood.

  • Place food and water bowls so that your bird does not defecate in them.

  • Avoid using metal objects such as toys, food bowls or plastic-coated bag ties in the cage.

  • Add fresh greenery to the cage regularly (eg gum leaves and grasses).

ZINC POISONING

1. What are the sources of zinc poisoning?

  • Birds live in a zinc-abundant environment.

  • Galvanised cages and aviaries may leach zinc.

  • Toys and quick-link zinc clamps (often used to attach toys and panels of cages).

  • Galvanised dishes release metal into food and water.

  • Some treat sticks contain large amounts of zinc in the wire holders.

  • Most powder coating is safe, however some powder coating uses zinc to speed the curing process and this can still be toxic.

2. What are the clinical signs of zinc poisoning?

  • Dull appearance, listlessness and weakness

  • Weight loss

  • Gastrointestinal, pancreatic and kidney problems

  • Polyuria and polydipsia

  • Seizures

  • Dysphagia

3. Is zinc poisoning fatal?

In untreated birds it is often fatal.

Birds with chronic poisoning often have signs of intermittent lethargy, dysphagia and depression.

4. How is zinc poisoning diagnosed?

  • Exposure to sources of zinc and clinical signs.

  • Radiology may be helpful but x-rays will not always show the presence of metallic foreign bodies.

  • Blood testing for zinc levels. Blood tests may also be useful to check for organ damage and anaemia.

5. What is the treatment for zinc poisoning?

  • Injections and oral drops of calcium EDTA twice daily for 3-7 days may be necessary to chelate the zinc.

  • Tube feeding with bulk cathartics to bind zinc still present in the intestine.

  • Additional treatments that may be needed include: high energy food supplements,

    a heat source, treatment of secondary infections and intravenous or subcutaneous fluids.

TRICHOMONIASIS

1. What is Trichomoniasis?

Trichomoniasis is a disease caused by a microscopic motile (moving) protozoa called trichomonas.

2. Where are trichomonads usually found?

Trichomonads are usually found in the crop, mouth, pharynx or trachea.

Other sites include the lungs and the liver.

3. What is the route of transmission?

The protozoa are transmitted by direct mouth to mouth contact between two birds or in contaminated water and food.

There is no aerosol transmission. There is no resistant cyst form so trichomonas does not survive in the environment for long periods.

4. What are the clinical signs of Trichomoniasis?

  • Vomiting and regurgitation

  • Weight loss with increased appetite - birdsoften select the smallest seed to eat as it is less painful

  • White plaques and/or cheesy material in the crop and trachea

  • Being "fluffed up"

  • Green diarrhoea

  • Dyspnoea

  • Poor growth in young birds

5. Is Trichomoniasis fatal?

In untreated birds it is often fatal.

If the bird is severely emaciated it may die despite treatment.

6. In which bird species is Trichomoniasis seen?

Trichomoniasis is most commonly seen in budgerigars, pigeons (where it is often called "canker") and in raptors (where it is often called "frounce"). They can be seen occasionally in any birds and will, for example, be seen in cockatiels caged with infected budgerigars.

7. Do all birds with trichomonads have clinical signs?

No. Some birds can be carriers and show no signs even after several years of infection. The amount of trichomonads seen on a wet smear often correlates with the clinical signs.

8. How is Trichomoniasis identified in the live bird?

Fresh warm crop washes will display these highly motile protozoa at 100x and 400x magnification.

Trichomonads have four flagella and an undulating membrane.

They can also be identified on a Diff-Quick stain. However, during the process of staining, usually all the trichomonads are lost leading to a false negative result.

9. Are trichomonads easy to identify?

Yes, though they may be missed for several reasons:

  • Warm saline was not used for the crop wash;

  • If only small numbers are present they may be missed on the crop wash;

  • Diff-Quick staining may lead to the loss of all the trichomonads.

10. Can my local laboratory identify Trichomoniasis?

No. Usually the protozoa will not survive the transport to the laboratory. Very occasionally they will be seen on histopathology.

11. What is the treatment for Trichomoniasis?

Birds can be treated with Ronidazole (Ronnivet-S) in the water for seven days. It has a wide safety margin.

Pigeons can be treated with a single dose of carnidazole (Spartrix). Metronidazole (Flagyl), has been also used in the past, orally for 2-10 days.

12. What additional treatment procedures may be needed?

The cage should be cleaned thoroughly daily and then disinfected. Quarantine all new birds until examined for Trichomoniasis.

High energy soft-liquid food supplements for emaciated birds.

Fluids intravenously or subcutaneously may be needed in cases of severe vomiting.

A heat source eg. a 40 watt light globe.

Treatment of the often present secondary infections.

13. Will all birds recover with treatment?

Most birds will recover.

However, birds that are severely debilitated and/or have extensive damage to the respiratory or digestive tract may not recover. Drug resistance is also now appearing in Europe to the available drugs.

SNEEZING IN BIRDS


There are many causes of sneezing in a bird. The occasional sneeze may be a normal occurrence.

In most cases if sneezing is regular and/or is combined with a wet nasal discharge further veterinary investigation is required. A wet nasal discharge usually leads to a brown discolouration above one or both of the nares.

Investigation of a bird's sneezing usually include choanal and sinus swabs for bacteria, fungi and Chlamydia. Other test that may need to be performed include mycoplasma swab, radiographs, blood biochemistry haematology, treatment trials and occasionally nasal biopsies.

Correction of a bird's sneezing usually involves environmental and husbandry changes and in many cases medication. Commonly the birds are on low vitamin A diets (an all seed diet) and are kept in poorly ventilated low humidity areas.

The causes of a sneezing bird include:

  • Smoking by the owner

  • Feather dust when moulting

  • Allergies to aerosol particles

  • Dusty environment/poor ventilation or dusty seed

  • Sinus blockage with foreign bodies including seed

  • Rhinoliths (build up of cellular material, usually related to vitamin A deficiency)

  • Malnutrition, especially vitamin A deficiency hyperkeratosis

  • Intranasal tumours

  • Mycoplasma infections

  • Fungal and/or Bacterial infections aspergillus cryptococcus candida

  • Viral infection (rare)pox, reo paramyxo polyoma

  • Chlamydiosis (Psittacosis)

  • Iactrogenic feeding fromula and medications

In birds the only initial sign of a serious systemic disorder may be the sneezing. All cases of regular sneezing in a bird must be attended to promptly.

Viral infections causing sneezing without other clinical signs are rare in birds. Most viral infections in birds lead to more serious systemic disorders in conjunction with the sneezing.

SCALY FACE

1. What is "Scaly Face"?

"Scaly Face" is a skin condition caused by microscopic mites called Knemidokoptes pilae.

2. Which areas of the bird are affected by "Scaly Face"?

The mites live on the featherless parts of the body - usually around the cere, eyes, cloaca and legs.

In rare cases the scale can be so overwhelming as to be found on the feathered areas of the bird.

3. What causes the scaly appearance?

The mites burrow under the skin of the featherless areas of the bird. The changes caused by the burrowing lead to thickened skin and the scaly appearance. The damage to the cere or feet may be so severe that the bird’s beak is deformed or the bird cannot perch properly.

4. In which bird species is "Scaly Face" commonly seen?

It is most commonly seen in budgerigars, canaries, princess parrots, currawongs and magpies. "Scaly Face" can occasionally be seen in any species of bird.

5. How are the mites identified in the live bird?

Skin scraping of the affected area will reveal the mites and their eggs at 400x magnification. Multiple skin scrapes may be needed for diagnosis.

6. What is the treatment for "Scaly Face"?

Ivermectin drops to the skin between the shoulders or moxidectin orally are the treatments of choice.

Although only 1-2 birds out of a flock may display signs of "Scaly Face", all in-contact birds need to be treated.

Paraffin topically on the scales has been used in the past but is not an effective treatment and may lead to inhalation pneumonia.

7. What other treatments may be needed to fully resolve "Scaly Face"?

Vitamin A supplementation is necessary as affected birds commonly have vitamin A deficiency as a predisposing cause of the mites.

It is important to clean and spray with miticide the perches and all wooden objects to remove any mite eggs.

Beak or nail trimming and correction may be needed if disfigurement has occurred.

PSITTACINE PRURITIC POLYFOLLICULITIS (PPPF) or "Stress Dermatitis"

1. What is PPPF?

PPPF is a term used for the appearance of multiple feathers growing out of the same feather follicle. It is suspected to be caused by a virus though this has still not been confirmed.

2. How is the disease transmitted from bird to bird?

It is unknown how it is passed from bird to bird. Often only one bird in a collection of birds will be affected at any one time.

3. What are the clinical signs of PPPF?

Usually feather loss and self–mutilation of the affected area are seen. The bird may make the skin bleed and even chew deep into the muscle. Birds with PPPF are usually undergoing some form of stress — either behavioural or disease related.

4. On which part of the body is PPPF found?

Polyfollicles are usually found on the neck, thigh and/or ventral (underneath) sides of the wing though they can be found on any part of the body.

5. In which birds is PPPF seen?

PPPF is very commonly seen in lovebirds (peachfaces), budgerigars and canaries. However, it can be found in any species including cockatiels, lorikeets and eclectus.

6. How is PPPF identified in a bird?

There are two feathers growing out of a single feather follicle. Occasionally three feathers are seen growing from one feather follicle. Some birds have removed all the multiple follicles and so only a wound is left leaving only the suspicion of polyfollicles. Biopsies do not reveal specific changes on histopathology. Reports have suggested it may be a herpes-like virus.

7. What is the treatment for PPPF?

There is no specific treatment for PPPF. The secondary infections need to be treated. A non-stressful environment combined with a balanced diet may help during the course of the dermatitis. Treatment may include tests to exclude other problems including Chlamydia, intestinal motile protozoa, Beak and Feather Disease, Polyomavirus, liver disease and lead poisoning. If all tests are negative, behaviour modifying drugs including Clomicalm and Haloperidol have been used with reasonable success.

Some single birds respond to being given a mate. However it is unclear how the disease is spread and so caution must be used when introducing another bird.

8. Will any birds fully recover?

Many birds will go through varying levels of recovery and may have repeat episodes. This is especially the case if the stress is behaviour induced.

PSITTACINE BEAK AND FEATHER DISEASE (PBFD) - Part 1

1. What is PBFD?

PBFD is a disease caused by a very small stable virus called a Circovirus. The virus is associated with beak deformities and the replacement of normal feathers with deformed quills. It is also associated with immunosuppression, often resulting in death.

2. What is the route of transmission?

The ingestion or inhalation of faeces or feather dust. Parents may pass it to chicks during feeding.

3. What are the clinical signs of PBFD in the acute form?

Vomiting and regurgitation with very few feather changes and death within 1-2 weeks may be seen.

4. What are the signs of chronic PBFD?

Feather and beak discolouration and deformities. Secondary infections to common illnesses are often seen in these immunodeficient birds. Birds may live with the chronic form of the disease from 6 months to 15-20 years.

5. In which birds is PBFD seen?

It is seen in all parrot species. The disease’s most noticeable signs are in the Cockatoo species. It most commonly affects young birds (in their first year) but can affect birds of any age.

6. How is PBFD identified in the live bird?

Most avian veterinarians can identify the feather changes in the common forms of PBFD.

A feather test for antigen (from viral particles) and a blood test for antibodies is available. Biopsies of the feathers and the feather follicles may also identify viral particles. A PCR (polymerase chain reaction) test on blood, feathers and faeces has also recently become available.

7. What is the treatment for PBFD?

There is no specific treatment for PBFD. The secondary infections need to be treated and a non-stressful environment combined with a balanced diet may help during the course of the disease.

8. Will any birds fully recover?

Birds with no antibodies to the virus are unlikely to fully recover and in these birds PBFD is commonly fatal. Birds that produce an antibody response may recover or become carriers of the virus. Some possible carriers include lorikeets, budgies and lovebirds.

POLYURIA (INCREASED URINE)

1. What is polyuria?

Polyuria is an increase in the urine component of bird droppings. Polyuria is often confused with diarrhoea. In polyuria there is increased liquid around the faeces and the faeces may be uncoiled.

2. Which component of the bird's droppings is the urine?

The droppings of birds consist of three components:

1) a central portion of dark solid faeces from the intestinal tract

2) white semi-solid urates made of urates from the kidneys

3) liquid urine from the kidneys

3. What is the cause of polyuria?

There are many causes of polyuria and often there is more than one problem.

Problems may include:

a) Infectious Diseases

  • Bacterial diseases

  • Chlamydophila

  • Parasitic infections

b) Non-Infectious Diseases

  • Nutritional deficiencies (especially all-seed diets)

  • Anorexia (not eating) with increased drinking

  • Liver disease

  • Poisons and toxins (heavy metal e.g. lead, zinc and copper; nicotine and plant poisons)

  • Diabetes

  • Hormonal imbalances

  • Egg laying

  • Kidney (renal) disease

  • Dietary – watery fruits and vegetables

4. What diagnostic tests are needed on affected birds?

  • Microscopic examination of faecal samples

  • Urine analysis and blood tests to determine any organ damage (eg to the kidney and liver)

  • Radiographs may determine the presence of tumours, swellings, eggs and heavy metal.

5. What is the treatment for polyuria?

Depending on the cause of the polyuria, treatment may involve antibiotics, medications for the kidneys or liver, or hormone injections. Changes in husbandry and diet are often necessary. In severe cases your bird will need to stay in hospital for several days while it is stabilised, and fluids and nutritional supplements administered.

POLYOMA (Part 2) — Budgerigars


1. Why is Polyoma different in budgies than in other parrot species?

Polyomavirus in budgies is the same virus as seen in other species. However the signs and course of the disease are more complicated than in other parrots as the virus may be present for several years. In other parrot species the virus is not usually present for more than a few months.

2. How is the virus transmitted from budgie to budgie?

Transmission is via the eating or breathing-in of infected droppings, skin and/or feather dust.

Budgies, unlike other birds, shed viral particles for up to 6 months after infection. They may carry the virus for up to 4-5 years.

3. What are the clinical signs of Polyoma in the acute form?

Death in birds aged 10-25 days. The dead birds have skin discolouration, abdominal distension, ascites (fluid in abdomen) and a swollen liver.

If the virus attacks the cerebellum (a portion of the brain) the birds will display head tremors.

4. What are the signs of long-term Polyoma?

Budgies that survive may show no outward signs and may develop normally but often still shed viral particles.

Many survivors will fail to develop their primary and secondary wing and/or tail feathers. These birds are called "runners" and the disease is often called "French Moult". The signs are similar to Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD). PBFD and Polyomavirus can occur concurrently.

5. How is Polyomavirus identified in the live bird?

Most avian veterinarians cannot definitely identify the disease on clinical signs alone though the age of the birds’ deaths and the survivors’ feather signs may be suggestive of Polyoma.

A PCR (Polymerase Chain Reaction) test on blood, feathers and faeces has also recently become available. Birds can be tested up until 6 months after infection.

6. What method of control is available for budgie aviaries infected with Polyoma?

First, stop the birds breeding. Birds less than 6-12 months of age should be removed from the aviary and not returned. Older birds should be moved to a clean environment in order to allow the breeding aviary to be thoroughly disinfected. On returning these older birds to the aviary breeding should not be recommenced for at least 1 season (6-12 months).

POLYOMA (Part 1)

1. What is Polyoma?

Polyoma is a disease caused by a very small stable virus called a Polyomavirus. The virus is associated with feather changes in young birds. It is also associated with immunosuppression and can affect multiple organs in the body including the brain, liver, kidney, spleen and heart.

2. How is the virus transmitted from bird to bird?

Transmission is by the eating or breathing in of the infected bird's droppings or feather dust. Parents may pass it to chicks during feeding. Transmission may also occur in the uterus to the egg.

3. What are the clinical signs of Polyoma in the acute form?

Vomiting, regurgitation and death within 1-2 weeks may be seen. Feather changes are uncommon. Often bruising of the skin is seen and severe life-threatening bleeding episodes after intramuscular injections may occur.

4. What are the signs of long-term Polyoma?

Feather discolouration and deformities similar to Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease. Delayed crop emptying, skin bruising, tremors and weakness may be seen. Secondary infections to common illnesses are often seen in these immunodeficient birds. Many birds show few signs.

5. In which bird species is Polyoma seen?

It is seen in all parrot species. The disease’s most noticeable signs are in budgerigars. It most commonly affects young birds between 4 – 16 weeks of age but can affect birds of any age especially in eclectus, lovebirds and budgies.

6. How is Polyomavirus identified in the live bird?

Most cases of Polyoma cannot be definitely identified by clinical signs alone.

A biopsy of the feathers and the feather follicles may identify viral particles. A PCR (Polymerase Chain Reaction) test on blood, feathers and faeces has recently become available.

7. What is the treatment for Polyoma?

There is no specific treatment for Polyoma. The secondary infections need to be treated and a non-stressful environment combined with a balanced diet may help during the course of the disease. Vaccines are at present being trialled in North America but are not yet available in Australia.

8. Will any birds fully recover?

In birds under 16 weeks of age with no natural immunity to the virus the disease may be fatal. Older birds that produce an antibody response often recover and/or become carriers of the virus. Some possible carriers include budgies and lovebirds.

PIGEON PARAMYXOVIRUS (PPMV1)

Pigeon paramyxovirus is a viral disease of pigeons. The virus has also been detected in other bird species. It has not been detected in parrots.

How is the virus transmitted?

The virus is spread directly from pigeon to pigeon, on cage material, feed and through common water containers. The virus can also be carried on the clothes, hands and feet of pigeon handlers.

What are the clinical signs of Pigeon Paramyxovirus?

  • Severe diarrhoea (greenish watery droppings)

  • Reluctant to leave loft when released for exercise

  • Appear a bit “fluffed up” and off colour

  • Reduced appetite

  • Increased thirst

  • Death may follow within a day or two after appearance of clinical signs

What is the treatment for Pigeon Paramyxovirus?

The virus does not respond to treatment although supportive care by a veterinarian may reduce the severity of the disease and increase the chances of survival.

How do I protect my pigeons?

  • Vaccinate all pigeons in your loft

  • Keep the loft and the equipments clean

  • Isolating and closely monitoring new pigeons or pigeons that have been to races or shows for 28 days

  • Disinfecting equipments used to house, transport, feed or water pigeons

  • Preventing wild birds (and their droppings) from contacting your pigeons

  • Limiting visitors to your pigeons

  • Disinfecting shoes, washing hands and cloth if you visit or handle other pigeons

What to do if my pigeons are sick

Pigeon paramyxovirus is a notifiable disease in NSW. If you suspect your pigeons may have the virus call your private veterinarian immediately. The Department of Primary Industries will pay for testing at the laboratory. If your veterinarian is unavailable call the Emergency Animal Disease Watch Hotline on 1800 675 888. It is especially important to keep all sick pigeons in a flock confined. Do not sell or move pigeons to another flock until laboratory test results are available.

Does the disease affect humans or other pets?

Human infection with Pigeon Paramyxovirus has not been reported. Human infection with other bird paramyxoviruses is rare and usually occurs only in people who have very close contact with infected birds. The virus causes a mild conjunctivitis.

There have been no reported cases of disease in dogs, cats and other non-avian species that come into contact with infected pigeons.